Derm Connection
Do You Know Your Products?
by Dr. Cliff Faver
W
e use shampoos and conditioners every day in our grooming procedures, but do we really know how to use them to our advantage? Understanding how products function, combined with a basic understanding of skin and coat science, can be a game-changer for both our results and our workload. The better we understand our products, the smarter (not harder) we can work.

Let’s start with the basics. Shampoos are detergents designed to clean. Their job is to strip oils, grab dirt and debris, and hold them in suspension until the product is rinsed away. While shampoos are essential for cleaning, they are naturally stripping the skin and coat. In general, the more lather a shampoo produces, the harsher and more stripping it tends to be.

Another important factor many groomers overlook is water quality. Shampoos do not differentiate between dirt and minerals, so if you are working with hard water, minerals in the water reduce cleaning efficiency. This often means you need more shampoo to achieve the same cleaning power.

It is also important to understand that standard shampoos are not designed to disinfect unless they contain specific antimicrobial ingredients. A regular shampoo may dilute bacteria or fungi and help remove some contamination, but it will not actually kill microbes.

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Shampoos and conditioners are designed to perform opposite functions. One removes oil, while the other replaces or restores moisture and protection.
Because shampoos are designed to strip oils and debris, they are not intended to hydrate dry skin or damaged hair. That is the role of conditioners. In fact, shampoos and conditioners are designed to perform opposite functions. One removes oil, while the other replaces or restores moisture and protection. Therefore, they should not be combined.

Conditioners are formulated to help restore the skin barrier, but not all conditioners work the same way. The ingredients inside the conditioner determine how the product functions. Two of the most important categories are emollients and humectants.

Emollients are fats and oils designed to create a protective barrier on the skin and coat. They help seal and protect, but they do not truly hydrate the skin or hair. If the coat or skin is already dry, an emollient may simply trap that dryness underneath the barrier. Emollient-heavy conditioners can also weigh the coat down, increase drying time, make scissoring more difficult, and leave residue behind on the skin and coat.

Humectants function very differently. They are designed to be absorbed into the skin and coat while drawing moisture in. This actually hydrates the skin and hair rather than simply coating them. Humectants generally leave little to no residue, dry more quickly, and improve the overall feel and manageability of the coat.

Many conditioners contain both emollients and humectants, but how the product performs depends on which ingredients are most dominant in the formula. Understanding this difference can dramatically improve the way we approach skin and coat health.

Another important function of conditioners is their ability to break down dried oils and sebum. A simple concept to remember is that oils dissolve oils. If sebum has dried and hardened on the skin, shampoos alone often make the problem worse because they further dry the area. Humectants become especially important because they help soften and hydrate the buildup, making it break down more easily.

A good comparison is removing chewing gum with peanut butter. The oils in the peanut butter help dissolve the gum naturally. This is much gentler and more effective than aggressively attacking it with harsh detergents. The same concept applies to hardened sebum and impacted coats.

Once we understand how products work, we can start using them correctly. If a pet already has dry skin or damaged hair and we only shampoo, we continue drying the skin and coat further. Even if we shampoo and follow with a heavy emollient conditioner, we may simply replace surface oils without actually rehydrating the skin underneath.

Ideally, for routine coat care, it’s best to use a mild shampoo that cleans without excessively stripping the coat, followed by a humectant-based conditioner that restores moisture to the skin and hair. Done properly, this can help maintain healthier skin and coat function while reducing many of the dry, itchy conditions we commonly see in the salon.

One of the best places to use product knowledge to your advantage is with dogs that have dander or for desheds. Many groomers instinctively begin with shampoo, not realizing they may actually be making the process more difficult.

The two main things holding dead coat or dander in place are dried sebum and dirt. Together, they create what is essentially “concrete” in the coat. If you start with shampoo, you often dry and harden that buildup further. If you don’t break down the “concrete” when you brush (pre- or post-bath), the coat resists release, forcing the groomer to work harder and increasing discomfort for the pet.

A much better approach is to begin with a humectant conditioner (condition-shampoo-condition). Allow the conditioner time to soften and break down the hardened sebum before moving into the shampoo stage. Once the buildup begins to release, the shampoo can clean the coat much more gently and effectively. Following with another hydrating conditioner helps restore moisture and protect the skin barrier.

One thing we must remember is that this is a chemical reaction, and chemical reactions require time. If the conditioner is rinsed off too quickly, it will not have enough contact time to properly soften and hydrate the buildup.

For heavily shedding pets or those that are groomed infrequently, allowing the conditioner to sit for 10 to 20 minutes can make an enormous difference. Breeds such as Great Pyrenees and Newfoundlands are excellent examples. If done correctly, much of the loose coat should be released directly into the tub. This significantly reduces drying time, brushing, cleanup and physical strain on the groomer.

Cutting down on time spent drying and brushing also helps protect groomers from inhaling hair, dirt, dander, bacteria and fungal debris. “Groomer’s lung” is a very real concern in the industry, and reducing airborne debris should be a priority for every professional groomer.

The same process also works extremely well for short-coated shedding breeds. Unfortunately, many grooming routines shampoo first and condition afterward, which often causes the coat to be released after the dog goes home rather than during the bath.

Understanding how to use your products correctly can improve your results, reduce your workload and create a much better experience for the pet. Healthy skin and coat are not just cosmetic issues—dry, itchy, shedding pets are uncomfortable. When we understand the science behind our products and use them properly, we can groom more efficiently while helping pets look, feel and live more comfortably.

Dr. Cliff Faver graduated with a BS in Biology/BA in Chemistry before getting a Veterinary degree in 1987. He is the past owner of Animal Health Services in Cave Creek, Arizona and now the US distributor for Iv San Bernard products, teaches the ISB Pet Aesthetician Certification program, and speaks internationally on hair and skin. His passion is to merge groomers and veterinarians to aid in helping and healing pets. He is also a member of AVMA, AAHA, AZVMA, Board member with Burbank Kennel Club, and has served on Novartis Lead Committee, Hill’s International Global Veterinary Board, and a Veterinary Management Group.