ur grooming shears, the scissors with which we do our finest work, are among a groomer’s most prized possessions. Along with our clippers, often they are also among our most expensive investments.

Most groomers know that the care of their shears matters—how we set them down and pick them up, how we hold them while scissoring, how we clean and disinfect them, how we store them, and how and where we get them sharpened. But how many of us know what they are made of?

Most metals in our shears are a mixture of various metals. There are several factors that go into creating various alloys and various levels of softness or hardness. And quality of the metal affects the higher price tag, as we all know.

One of the descriptive factors that experts will tell us about the metal in our professional shears is its hardness. This is often measured by what is called the “Rockwell scale.” The higher the number, the harder the metal. The hardness of metal used in professional hairdressing shears typically ranges from the upper 50s to low 60s on the Rockwell hardness scale, which provides a balance between edge retention and durability without being overly brittle.

While hardness is important to be aware of in the metal, if it is too hard, the metal can become more brittle and even snap or fracture under impact or stress. The Rockwell scale measures the metal’s resistance of being deformed by pressure applied to it. But if the metal is too soft, then hair can sometimes fold between the blades instead of being cut by the sharp edges.

For cutting hair, the harder metals might take a sharper edge, but they also might be more brittle and prone to dings. You may see terms such as “ISO” which is an international agency that establishes standards across industries so that there is consistency in manufacturing.

Sheared edge quality is crucial in manufacturing, affecting the performance and durability of materials. Various standards, such as ISO 9013, provide guidelines for assessing edge quality, including defects like dross, which can impact the shear’s final integrity.

Dross refers to the waste material or impurities that accumulate during the cutting process, particularly when metal is cut using high-heat methods like plasma or laser cutting. This material can negatively affect the quality of the cut and may need to be removed for optimal results.

It is also very important for groomers to be aware of the “COO”—the country of origin. Japan and Korea as the COO are widely regarded as higher quality craftsmanship than Chinese, Filipino or Pakistani.

If a shear says “Japan” on them, it is because they were made and put together in Japan. It is advisable for groomers to ask questions about the labeling of Japanese steel on the shear because they may contain a fraction of it, all the while the actual country of origin is China or a different place altogether.

“Metals from different parts of the world, while being the same metal, are uniquely different from one another in density, hardness, and strength,” notes Jonathan David with Kenchii shears.

“That I know of, no one makes American scissors that I have ever seen,” says Dennis Geib with Sensei shears.

Dennis also went on to warn about the leading manufacturing challenge: the less money put into the steel, the higher the profit for the company. He also advises groomers to ask about the percentage of steel in the metal.

Some of us prefer a heavy substantive shear, while others prefer light and quick and super sharp. And there is something out there that will be optimal for each of us. It is a very good thing that there are so many choices for us, given the huge range in sizes of dogs and their behavior, coat and owner preferences, as well as options for every budget.