Contents | August 2024
14
by Kathy Hosler
28
by Daryl Conner
ALSO INSIDE
todd@barkleigh.com
adam@barkleigh.com
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Daryl Conner
Lynn Paolillo
Jennifer Bishop Jenkins
ALSO INSIDE
ON THE COVER
by Lexie Goldsmith
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Cat mats are clumps of dead hair stuck together by excess skin oils, which means that small and mid-sized mats release more easily with just a comb once the hair is thoroughly cleaned and blown dry. Mats that are larger than what can be comfortably combed out should be shaved out. This is not only to prevent the cat from becoming upset by extensive mat removal, but also because the matted hair is dead and damaged, meaning it can’t be brushed out and left long.
In human hair care, over-conditioning is an issue that can lead to limp, greasy hair that lacks volume. The same principle applies to cats. Having conditioner in the cat’s fur can also attract more dirt and debris, which negates the purpose of grooming in the first place and can cause mats to form more quickly.
Professional groomers need to be especially cautious of this when working with longhaired breeds, such as Persians or Maine Coons, whose fur can become easily weighed down by excess product. The goal should always be to enhance the natural beauty and health of the coat without overwhelming it with unnecessary products.
In addition to not wanting conditioner residue to stay on the cat’s skin and coat, remember that cats lick themselves frequently; therefore, they can ingest any products left in the coat after grooming. Groomers should be considerate of the types and amounts of products that will remain once the cat leaves the grooming salon.
Similarly, for breeds like the Maine Coon, which are known for their rugged, water-repellent coats, conditioners can alter the coat’s natural texture. This can lead to a soft, silky finish that is contrary to the breed’s standard of a more coarse and resilient coat.
Even shorthaired cats can have different hair colors and textures, which should be enhanced, not covered in product. For example, the Chartreux specifies a coat that is “slightly woolly in texture.” Whether a cat is pedigreed or not, a thorough assessment should be done before each groom so that products and techniques can be chosen to work with that particular cat’s natural features.
Show cats bathed weekly have many more options, including conditioning products as needed, because they are then bathed again within a few days to a week. Whereas a cat that only visits the grooming salon every few months should have a groom that focuses on deep cleansing and degreasing in order to remove the buildup of dead hair and skin oils.
Rinsing thoroughly is a crucial step in cat grooming. Ensuring that all the product is washed out will help in keeping the coat healthy and clean. Since conditioners can be more challenging to rinse out completely, avoiding them simplifies this process.
Once the coat is squeaky clean, it is important to dry them completely down to the skin. Start by using a towel to blot (not rub) excess water and then preferably use a non-heated HV dryer. A flat nozzle is great for blasting water and dead hair out while being incredibly gentle with the cat’s skin and healthy, live hair.
By focusing on pre-bath preparation, using high-quality cat shampoos, ensuring thorough rinsing and adopting proper drying techniques, groomers can achieve the desired results for each cat. Encouraging clients to bring their cat in frequently for bath and blow-dry appointments will also help improve the cat’s coat condition and keep them free from tangles and matting. As with any grooming practice, understanding the unique needs of each cat and tailoring the approach accordingly is essential for success.
– Helen Keller
A motivated and engaged team in the grooming salon requires proactive leadership, effective communication and genuine appreciation. By leading by example, sharing your vision and supporting employee growth, you can cultivate a dynamic team environment that drives success. Let’s shine and grow together!
Kim Kier is the owner/groomer of Little Barks Grooming & Boutique, an award-winning luxury salon in Columbia, South Carolina. She is also a Master Pet Aesthetician, Professional Grooming Credential (World Pet Association), Master Groomer Behavior Specialist, Fear Free Professional, Low Stress Handling Level Silver Certified, and Certified Puppy Consultant.
Photos by Shannon Baker
Whitney began her feline-filled career as a receptionist at a cat-exclusive veterinary clinic where she advanced to become a vet tech and also learned how to groom cats.
“That was before cat grooming was really very popular at all,” she says. “We are in a big area for purebred cats. I realized that there was a huge need for cat groomers and the services they provide. So I became a Certified Master Cat Groomer, opened a mobile cat business, and then opened my salon, The Charleston Cat Groomer.
“Even though I had lots of experience and was confident in my grooming skills, I felt that I needed to become certified,” Whitney continues. “I wanted my clients to know that I cared about what I was doing enough to get certified. It really gives people peace of mind if you’ve gotten some intensive training to do what you do best.”
“We sell our cat hair to the allergy testing facility, so we were considered a medically necessary business,” shares Whitney. “During COVID, I and my two assistants were busier than we have ever been. Because almost everyone was at home 24/7, looking at their dirty, shedding cats, business was booming at The Charleston Cat Groomer. We had parking lot drop-off during the pandemic. I would meet the owner at their car, then bring the cat inside. It worked fine.”
As someone who requires their work keep them interested and involved, Whitney looks forward to each day, because with cat grooming there’s never a dull moment.
“The thing I like least is when we can’t do a cat,” she says. “It’s disappointing to us and to the owner. It’s always frustrating when you can’t complete a groom, but you have to do what’s best for the animal. We do have a mobile vet that comes to sedate at the salon. We are lucky to have that option.”
Whitney also offers another unique service, which is listed on her website, www.charlestoncatgroomer.com, called “Groomer From Afar.” This is a virtual service through which she offers consultations for people who don’t have cat groomers in their area.
“I think my most exciting call was a lady from Ireland,” she continues. “There were no cat groomers within about 200 miles from her, but through Groomer From Afar, her cat got the care that it needed.
“It’s so satisfying,” Whitney adds. “After the consultation, I get lots of good feedback and reviews. Many send pictures and short videos and they say things like, ‘Oh my gosh, I can’t believe I did it. Thanks so much!’”
“Lots of people don’t realize that cats need regular grooming,” explains Whitney. “They have no idea how much maintenance these cats take. Just since I began cat grooming, there has been a huge difference in how much bigger and thicker the coats have become. The breeders know that people want these giant, luxurious coats, so there is a huge change in maintaining them.”
To further help cat owners, Whitney has an Amazon storefront called The Pineapple Cat Shop and a Shopify ecommerce site, www.pineapplecatshop.com, to sell cat grooming tools and equipment. The brand is actually a little tieback to Charleston, because in Charleston, pineapples are very popular and they are a symbol of southern hospitality.
She also has a new product she created for groomers and hair stylists called Strapped Aprons. It’s a clear apron with detachable, interchangeable straps that protects your clothing but doesn’t cover up your “style.”
Whitney gets a lot of business through her website, but she says that her Instagram page, @whitneybullockcfmg, has really helped her brand and her business. She posts every single day and has over 100,000 followers on Instagram, and she is one of the few that answers every message she gets. Whitney also makes educational tutorials and fun videos, and even has a cat, King Monty, who has become an Instagram sensation. One of his viral videos has had over 12 million views.
As busy as she is, this energetic go-getter still finds time for her family and fun. A self-proclaimed beach bum, Whitney says that they live close to the beach and can be found there most every weekend. And, loving all things Disney, they visit the park several times a year. Whitney and her husband were even married at Disney World.
Being able to balance her professional and personal life keeps Whitney Bullock looking forward to each new day. And The Charleston Cat Groomer and the Pineapple Cat Shop ensure that all of the feline families they serve are provided the best care and service possible.
The famous “Cat Daddy” and Animal Planet TV star, Jackson Galaxy, uses a perfect analogy to describe cat skin, cautioning us that it is “tissue-paper thin.” And veterinary science completely backs him up on that description. The thickness of a cat’s skin varies with species, breed and location, but ranges from 0.4 to 2 mm. In comparison, dogs’ skin thickness ranges from 0.5 to 5 mm. Even hairless cats, with their slightly thicker skin, still have microscopic vellus hairs to provide some protection. To underscore the severity of the thinness of their skin, cats can even get a unique condition called “skin fragility syndrome.”1
The answer, as with many complex questions, is “it depends.” No one is suggesting that heavily matted cats can be brushed out. They cannot. There are, however, other alternatives and mitigations that are much healthier for the cat than complete shave-downs or even the popular “lion cut.” A full shave of the torso of a cat is almost never necessary, and potentially unhealthy for the cat. It is especially wrong if it is being done unnecessarily. Other options include requiring more regularly scheduled grooms, teaching the owner to assist with home care, pre-soaking in conditioners, spot shaving, or even shaving certain areas like rear pantaloons or bellies that cats spend so much time sitting on. All of these are much better for the wellbeing of a cat than a shave of the full torso.
The famous “Cat Daddy” and Animal Planet TV star, Jackson Galaxy, uses a perfect analogy to describe cat skin, cautioning us that it is “tissue-paper thin.” And veterinary science completely backs him up on that description. The thickness of a cat’s skin varies with species, breed and location, but ranges from 0.4 to 2 mm. In comparison, dogs’ skin thickness ranges from 0.5 to 5 mm. Even hairless cats, with their slightly thicker skin, still have microscopic vellus hairs to provide some protection. To underscore the severity of the thinness of their skin, cats can even get a unique condition called “skin fragility syndrome.”1
The facts about cats’ dangerously thin skin and vitally protective and abundant fur coat raise questions about the practice of routine shaving of cats by pet groomers everywhere. So, should cats be shaved?
The answer, as with many complex questions, is “it depends.” No one is suggesting that heavily matted cats can be brushed out. They cannot. There are, however, other alternatives and mitigations that are much healthier for the cat than complete shave-downs or even the popular “lion cut.” A full shave of the torso of a cat is almost never necessary, and potentially unhealthy for the cat. It is especially wrong if it is being done unnecessarily. Other options include requiring more regularly scheduled grooms, teaching the owner to assist with home care, pre-soaking in conditioners, spot shaving, or even shaving certain areas like rear pantaloons or bellies that cats spend so much time sitting on. All of these are much better for the wellbeing of a cat than a shave of the full torso.
Yes, we need to take time with the owners to educate them so that they, too, can understand the vital role that hair and skin play in their cat’s health. We can stock and sell them the right combs and equipment to help maintain the coat. We can offer spot removal of mats while preserving what we can of their fur. At my salon, all the long-haired cats that we groom are mandated to be in for full or partial grooming on at least a two- or three-month schedule. The owners are happy to comply because this keeps the price down, their cats happier and healthier, and their homes cleaner of shedding.
In addition, as with the problematic shaving of fur-type dogs, the wispy and less protective undercoat hairs, which are more prone to matting, grow back quickly and heavier after shaving. The more protective and important primary or guard hairs do not grow back as quickly or as well, especially in older cats or cats that are repeatedly shaved.
The next layer of this debate between the two schools of thought in cat grooming centers around shaving a cat “against the grain.” Cats’ hairs grow to a genetically pre-determined length; that is, they grow to a certain length and stop. In dogs, we call these coat types fur not hair. And as in dogs with fur-type coats, they should not be cut, especially not on the upper torso, unless truly necessary. Most importantly, cats’ fur generally grows—with some breed exceptions—in a direction, from the head towards the tail and from the top of the spine downward.
There are those that aggressively defend—even require—shaving against the direction of the natural lay of a cat’s hair. Having asked about this point of view, the rationale given to me was that it was artistically necessary to smooth out the cut without showing lines. Not surprisingly, this camp also has no problem doing lion cuts or complete shave-downs on the whole torso for reasons no more serious than owner request. A few have told me that full shave-downs are all they do when they groom cats. Every cat, every time. Shaving is cat grooming to them.
Shaving a cat against the direction of the growth of the hair has several potential negative consequences. First, it can tear the delicate arrector pili muscle attached to the hair follicle. The arrector pili muscles function in thermoregulation by lifting the hair to make space for a layer of heat when the weather is cool or lying flat when the weather is warm. They are also important for giving social signals (i.e., raising their “hackles,” which is called piloerection). Shaving a cat against the hair growth can pull and stretch the arrector pili muscle and damage it.2
The argument also comes from the pro-shaving camp that cats are cooler and more comfortable if shaved. But, that is not a fact-based conclusion since cats do not have sweat glands that cool their skin. Cats have apocrine glands that hydrate inside the follicle, not exocrine glands, as humans do, which deliver hydration directly to the skin surface to cool it.
A final argument in contradiction of shaving against the natural lay of a cat’s coat has to do with the health of their hair follicles. Clipping a cat’s hair with a short blade against the grain pulls it the opposite direction from which it grows, causing the hair to pull away from the follicle and the way it normally lays. This leaves the hairs shorter than the level of the skin, causing the hair root to retreat inside the follicle below the skin level.
We should always make our grooming decisions based on what is best for the cat. And it is the highest calling for us to make those decisions based on facts, science and published data where possible. We would all benefit from getting more data about the consequences of some of our grooming decisions. Until then, common sense and a love for these naturally beautiful cats will hopefully guide us to not destroy, but instead protect, their natural and abundant fur coats.
- Trotman TK, Mauldin E, Hoffmann V, et. al., (2007, October 18). Skin fragility syndrome in a cat with feline infectious peritonitis and hepatic lipidosis. Vet Dermatol. 18(5):365-9. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-3164.2007.00613.x. PMID: 17845626; PMCID: PMC7169342
- The Certified Cat Groomer. (2021). International Professional Groomers, Inc. and Professional Cat Groomers Association. Linda Easton, ICMG, Kim Raisanen, CMCG
Photos provided by Lexie Goldsmith
The skin is an organ that works as a protective layer; however, some chemicals, such as lipid-soluble substances, are absorbed by the skin, allowing them into the bloodstream to cause toxic effects on the body. And even if the chemical is not absorbed via infiltrating the skin, the cat may still lick itself, ingesting the chemical and causing issues internally.
It often falls on groomers to help with accidental spillage of substances or contact with toxins, which can include:
- Toxic plants such as lilies
- Petroleum, petroleum condensate, gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, crude oil, or other hydrocarbon mixtures
- Essential oils such as lavender, tea tree, peppermint, eucalyptus and citrus oils
- Insecticides such as Organophosphates, phosphates, Permethrin, carbamates or pyrethrins
- Herbicides
- Cleaning products
- Ethylene glycol (antifreeze)
- Benzalkonium chloride
- White spirit
- Caustic sodas
Any substance that has damaged the skin, such as a chemical burn, will require veterinary treatment. Mechanical or chemical removal may cause more damage and pain or prolong the healing process.
Some life-threatening emergencies in cats are induced by direct absorption or by oral ingestion (through self-grooming) of a toxin after skin exposure. The client should always source veterinary treatment before the bath to be sure the cat does not require medical intervention. Advice is also available to the public via the Pet Poison Helpline about whether the substance is toxic.
Signs such as excessive salivation and foaming may be expected if a scented substance is spilled, but it can also be a sign of toxicity; only a veterinarian knows the right course to take. The cat will require consultation for oesophageal and mucosa damage, depending on the substance. The cat may also need IV fluids, absorbent medication, dialysis, gastric lavage or emesis to expel the toxins, and ongoing supportive care. Do not try to induce vomiting without veterinary advice, as it can damage the cat internally when the substance is expelled.
If a cat presents with these signs, send them straight back to the vet:
- Depression/lethargy
- Collapse
- Vomiting
- Shaking
- High or low body temperature
- Seizure
- Lack of coordination
- Neurological signs (looking “drunk”)
- Rapid, shallow, heavy or no breathing
- High heart rate
- Mucous membrane colors are white, purple, blue, pale or deep red
- Capillary refill time over two seconds
- Behavioral changes
- Gastrointestinal issues
- Pawing at the face
- Clamping of the jaw
Removing the contaminating substance begins by breaking it up before it can be removed by shampoo and water. This starts by using a solid surfactant such as dishwashing liquid; be sure to use one without limonene or citrus oils. Use as little water as possible, increasing the water with every wash.
The cat must be bathed multiple times (as many as 5-10 washes) before a shampoo is used to finish. Generally, the more the cat’s coat soaps up, the less oil or substance remains. Motor oil, for example, will make the color lighter, but it may take weeks to leave the hair shaft altogether.
Always ask the veterinarian before beginning the removal process for the recommended product to use. Removal of the substance does not guarantee that the cat has not been poisoned; the cat still requires monitoring with veterinary care.
- Mothballs
- Laundry detergent
- Permethrin (if higher than 0.1% concentration)
- Pesticides, rodenticides and insecticides
- Potpourri
- Rat and snail bait
- Human medications like anti-depressants
- Panadol
- Ibuprofen
- Aspirin
- Antifreeze
- Lead
If bathing, you must dry the cat completely to avoid hypothermia. Depending on the circumstances and the cat’s stress signs, this can be done either by a high-velocity dryer, in a cage or by air-drying using a heating pad.
It is essential to keep up to date with your pet first aid and CPR certifications to be able to identify signs of neurotoxicity. If you are not educated in first aid or are not comfortable with helping an emergency case, please refer the client to have this completed under veterinary care.
Lexie Goldsmith teaches an online course, “First Aid for the Cat Groomer,” written by two Certified Vet Nurses and Master Cat Groomers, which helps you bridge the gap between an emergency and veterinary treatment, and includes a more extensive list of common household poisons and what to do in case of poisoning. The course includes a certificate of completion, tests and essay questions. learncatgrooming.com.au/p/first-aid
by Daryl Conner
elines are not small dogs in cat suits; every pet groomer worth their salt is familiar with this fact. Some standard dog grooming practices can be dangerous to cats, and most of them have to do with the unique anatomy that felines possess. Here are some interesting facts that separate cat grooming best practices from those of dog grooming and why.
It is not uncommon for dogs to exit a grooming appointment happily sporting some type of product in their fur. It could be a leave-in conditioner, a little detangling spray or mousse, a dusting of chalk or a spritz of cologne. This works just fine because dogs are not the voracious self-groomers that cats are. Cats will ingest any product left on their fur after grooming as they clean themselves. Ideally, cats will be washed and conditioned with feline-safe products, rinsed well and sent home from their spa treatment with clean coats free of residual chemicals or hair care products.
It is common practice to secure dogs in the tub or on the table with a grooming loop. These seatbelts of the grooming world prevent excited or anxious pets from launching themselves off a raised surface, keeping them safe while we work. Because of the solid muscular structure of a dog’s neck, the loop is a safe restraint when used with care on normal, healthy dogs. However, a cat’s muscular structure differs from a dog’s and their delicate vertebra can be damaged if they pull on a grooming loop that is around their neck. Cats should be restrained with a figure-eight-style harness or one that loops under the front legs.
Many pet groomers still routinely express anal glands on dogs they groom. Cats also have anal glands, and healthy cats express some liquid when evacuating their bowels. Experienced cat groomers know that cats will often release their glands when stressed, or sometimes even if the groomer merely lifts the tail to perform a sanitary trim. These delicate structures can become impacted, infected and even rupture. Groomers who note swelling, redness, hairlessness from irritation or other problems should refer the customer to seek veterinary attention for their pet.
Groomers willing to educate themselves about how to groom cats safely and effectively can create a highly lucrative niche for themselves. There are millions of loved pet cats in the U.S. and not enough knowledgeable groomers who offer the specialized care they require. While they are not little dogs in cat suits, grooming these unique creatures can be a delightful way to earn a living once you become familiar with the best ways to care for them.
- Essential Oil and Liquid Potpourri Poisoning in Cats. VCA Animal Hospitals. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/essential-oil-and-liquid-potpourri-poisoning-in-cats
- Pet Poison Prevention: Understanding Alcohol Toxicity In Pets. Animal Emergency Care. https://animalemergencycare.net/pet-poison-prevention-understanding-alcohol-toxicity-in-pets/
- Household Hazards – Toxic Hazards for Cats. VCA Animal Hospitals. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/household-hazards-toxic-hazards-for-cats
- Anal Glands in Cats. PetMD. https://www.petmd.com/cat/general-health/anal-glands-cats
- Watch Your Senior Cat’s Nails! Trumann Animal Clinic. https://trumannanimalclinic.com/2021/10/26/watch-your-senior-cats-nails/
- Understanding Stud Tail in Cats. South Seattle Veterinary Hospital. https://www.southseattlevet.com/understanding-stud-tail-in-cats
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Simple things such as letting our tools do our work for us, keeping distractions to a minimum, working within our skill level and not being afraid to walk away from a groom are all examples of self-care while grooming. As business owners, setting clear work hours and scheduling time off will help keep us motivated to stay involved in and excited about our grooming business.
You never know when a distracting text or notification will come up on your phone. If you lose focus for one second, you could easily lose control of the cat you are grooming and become injured. If things are chaotic or stressful outside of work, it is best to reschedule your clients than to risk an injury to yourself or to a cat.
If you are ready to expand your skill level, complete more difficult grooms and take on more aggressive cats as clients, seeking an education through an organization that focuses on feline grooming is an important next step. Increasing your education before you increase the difficulty level in the cats you accept as clients will help to keep you safe.
When you make the choice to walk away from a groom, you are choosing your safety and wellbeing over the owner’s desire for you to groom their cat.
I have had many bites over the years. Two of those bites required emergency surgery and a week in the hospital. I know from experience it is far better to walk away from a cat than to continue a groom that has the potential to cause you an injury.
I set the second Thursday of the month for my day off so everyone knows I will not be available and no one will be able to reach me on that day. Now I go even further and use no electronic devices on that day. Yes, it was scary at first. Yes, it can be hard. But I found it is a very important part of my success. It gives me time to refocus, prioritize what is important in my life and reset.
If a full day of no contact with your business is too big of a first step, try something smaller like taking a morning off each month.
While self-care is often thought of as practices you can do outside of work, there are many self-care steps we as groomers can take to help us become more productive and to keep us in love with grooming.
by Lynn Paolillo
This style of muzzle allows me to monitor the cat’s face and breathing, and also doesn’t put too much pressure around their whiskers and face. Some cats want to feel hidden and others want to not be touched, so finding an appropriate muzzle for different cats’ needs is imperative.
Fig 2) Nails should be trimmed to an appropriate length by holding the paws in natural positions.
Fig 4) To continue the sanitary trim between the rear legs, I gently but firmly hold the cat across my lap. Quick, deliberate strokes with the clipper limit how long I have to hold the cat while still getting the sanitary trim finished.
Fig 5) Longhaired cats also tend to have long, fluffy hair growing between their paw pads, which are called toe tufts. Using the same #10 blade, skim the hair so that it is trimmed flush with the paw pads. Do not dig in between their paw pads or toes, as their skin is fragile and can be nicked easily.
Fig 7) Hold the water nozzle close to the skin and slightly angled towards the rear. Rinse in the direction the hair grows to “push” the dead hair out. The scrubbing with shampoos, pressure, angle and direction of the water flow will encourage more hair to release in the tub.
Fig 8) Starting at the back and working your way down, use gravity to make sure all areas of the cat are fully rinsed, especially the underside, armpits and between the rear legs.
Fig 11) Using cotton balls and a cat-safe ear cleaner, gently wipe out each ear. Make sure to remove any visible gunk or debris without digging into the ear canal. Ear cleaners also have a drying agent, so using them after the bath helps to dry any drops of water that might have gotten into the cat’s ears.
Fig 13) Start blow-drying away from the cat’s head and face to blast the bulk of the water off, then hold the nozzle close to the body so that the warm air and force from the HV dryer blows the loosened hair out. Use a similar angle and “pushing” motion as the water nozzle.
Fig 15) To keep the rear end clean, you can do a bit of extra trimming of the fluffy hair on the haunches. Hold the cat across your lap and use a ½” comb and vacuum attachment to trim the hair along the back of the rear legs.
Fig 16) Once fully dried, use a large metal comb to comb in the direction the hair grows. For wiggly cats or cats known to swat, gently hold the front paws and lift so that the cat is standing. With their weight shifted to the back paws, it is easier to comb the armpits, belly, tuck-up and front of the rear legs.
Fig 17) Continue with a large metal comb to comb all over, and then use a de-shedding comb to repeat. You’ll be able to use less swipes with the comb to get more loose hair out and the finer comb won’t snag on any larger clumps.
Fig 19) Once the mat is isolated, hook the comb underneath the mat and place your other hand on the skin above where the mat is. Holding the skin firm, use one quick motion to tug the clump of dead hair loose and remove the mat. Mats larger than 1” in diameter may be too large to use this technique and may need to be shaved out instead.
Fig 21) Once the combs can glide smoothly through the hair without catching, a de-shedding tool can be used on the back and sides. Only use gentle tools that will not cut hair or irritate skin, and always use a very light hand and brush in the direction the hair grows.
by Dr. Cliff Faver
When outdoor cats socialize with their peers, the risk of parasites and other issues escalates. One pervasive issue is cat bite abscesses. Due to the sharp, pinpoint nature of a cat’s teeth and the presence of a harmful bacteria called Pasteurella in their mouths, bites often lead to infection/abscess, whether it’s to a cat or a human. As a groomer, it’s vital never to underestimate a cat bite (or even a scratch), as they can result in severe infections, loss of fingers or limbs and, in extreme cases, even death, highlighting the critical nature of this health concern.
Hyperthyroidism in cats is a condition that can easily be controlled with medicine, but is life-threatening if left untreated. Treating the hyperthyroid controls the progression of the disease, but hair-growth protocols are often needed to return the hair to normal.
Stud Tail
The best way to address this problem is using a condition-shampoo-condition (close-open-close) process to break down the old sebum (first conditioning step), followed by a shampoo stage to remove the top layer of old sebum, and then a very hydrating/soothing conditioner in the second conditioning stage. Degreasing the area is not recommended because it is irritating and will tend to get a rebound-sebum-production effect as a response. Bathing may need to be done twice weekly to weekly to settle down and quiet the irritated glands.
With the aggressive way the cats chew and pull out hair, the most obvious conclusion is that it may be allergic in nature. They tend to be only moderately responsive to steroids and anti-inflammatories (varying from cat to cat), leading us to believe another underlying issue exists. Conditioning with a good hydrating conditioner may not be curative but will help soothe the issue.
The good news is that if the coatis restored, most cats will return to grooming, if capable. With many of these disease processes occurring later in life, some cats lose the ability to groom themselves because of obesity or arthritis and will need to be groomed regularly to avoid this condition.
Although cats tend to have fewer hair and skin issues than dogs, they do still benefit from proper, routine grooming to keep their hair and skin healthy.
Dr. Cliff Faver graduated with a BS in Biology/BA in Chemistry before getting a Veterinary degree in 1987. He is the past owner of Animal Health Services in Cave Creek, Arizona and now the US distributor for Iv San Bernard products, teaches the ISB Pet Aesthetician Certification program, and speaks internationally on hair and skin. His passion is to merge groomers and veterinarians to aid in helping and healing pets. He is also a member of AVMA, AAHA, AZVMA, Board member with Burbank Kennel Club, and has served on Novartis Lead Committee, Hill’s International Global Veterinary Board, and a Veterinary Management Group.
by Blake Hernandez
New Dog Client
How often do you get your dog professionally groomed?
This also lets me know how short I need to go in order for the coat to not be too long and matting by their next appointment.
Remember, clients will usually exaggerate. If they tell me “once every couple months,” that usually means every four months.
What is your dog’s lifestyle like?
When a client says that their dog doesn’t do anything that means they’ll be seeing a lot of the bottom of their paw pads while they’re being a couch potato.
For example, they may say to never trim their ears or tail; or maybe their cocker keeps the toupee up top. Trust me, this is the easiest way to keep your bases covered in the customer satisfaction game.
What is your cat’s lifestyle like?
The next series of pictures (Figs 2-9) were taken within two to three seconds total. The goal is to sweep across the cat’s body in a fluid motion, touching each area that might cause the cat to become aggressive when touched. Any negative reaction to an area may be an indicator that the cat is too much for your level of cat-handling skills, or simply alert you to areas of concern when handling the cat later in the groom.
by Anjie Coates
Photo by Anjie Coates
- rankie is a Domestic Shorthair cat and a regular of mine. He’s very large, and due to his size, his owner cannot lift him in a crate so he walks on a leash.
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The door opens and Frankie struts in: “I’m here! I’m here!”
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“I see that. I need to talk to your Mom for a minute and then we can get started,” I tell him.
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Frankie: “OK, I’ll be on my table.”
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Frankie walks into the cat room on his flexi leash while his owner is still holding it by the front desk. The leash lifts off the ground and is now the height of the doorknob.
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Frankie: “I’m waiting!”
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“I’ll be right there, buddy,” I assure him.“Are we doing nails last today or first?” I ask.”Frankie stretches his toes and sinks them into the anti-fatigue mat on the table: “Last.”“OK, well let’s get you cleaned up then, shall we?” I propose.Frankie: “I need love first.”“Of course,” I reply as I rub his face.Frankie purrs and kneads the table.“We good now? Can we get you washed up?” I ask.Frankie: “I suppose.”“OK, face first. Let me see,” I tell him.
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Frankie lifts his face to me and shuts his eyes as I wash his head.
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“OK, stand up for me. I need to get your underside,” I say.
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Frankie: “What if I just lie down? I think that would be easier.”
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“It would be easier for you, but you’re kind of heavy so it wouldn’t be easier for me,” I reply.
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Frankie: “If I must…” as he stands and we proceed with the bathing process.
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“OK, buddy, you’re ready for the table. Now you can lay down,” I tell him.
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Frankie: “Finally.”
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I slide a Happy Hoodie on his head and fix his whiskers after drying him with a towel.
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“Your favorite part, buddy,” I say.
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Frankie rolls into a loaf on the table and digs his claws in.
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I start the HV dryer and his back end shoots up from the table and wiggles around trying to get in the path of the air.
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“Frankie, I’m trying to get you dry from the top down,” I exclaim.
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Frankie: “Bum first!”
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“OK, bum first,” I submit as I dry his back end as it sways to and fro.
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I finish drying him while my assistant cleans his ears and occasionally wipes the happy drool from his face and unhooks a nail when one gets caught while he’s kneading.
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“You purr almost as loud as the dryer,” I say.
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Frankie rolls on his side and then almost entirely on his back and continues to knead the air.
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“OK, nails and then you’re done. You want to roll back onto your belly?” I ask.
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Frankie: “No. I’m good.”
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“OK. But then I’ll need you to sit upright again,” I tell him.
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Frankie: “Fine.”
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I trim his nails and do a light sanitary trim, then say, “OK, Frankie, let’s head to the picture room.”
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Frankie: “Carry me.”
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“I always do,” I reply.
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Frankie: “What am I wearing today?”
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I offer him a few costumes and chooses the green Hawaiian shirt and shoves his head inside of it.
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I put the sunglasses on him and take a few pictures.
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Frankie: “Am I handsome?”
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“You are stunning,” I assure him as I hear the door chime.
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Frankie: “Is Mom here?”
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“She is. You ready?” I ask.
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Frankie: “I suppose.”
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I clip his leash on and carry him out to the front room where I greet his owner and offer to carry him to the car.
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Frankie: “I need to get down. I have to leave my mark.”
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“No, buddy, you’re done. I’m going to put you in the car for your Mom,” I explain.
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Frankie wiggles and squirms until I put him down. He runs over to the floor mats and begins wiping his front feet on each of the six mats that line the front room. Once he finishes with the last one he looks up at me: “OK, now carry me.”
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And I reply,
Tangle Teezer’s Pet Teezer Detangling and Deshedding Brushes collection includes their Cat Grooming Brush, which is designed to groom, massage, and bond with furry felines. Perfect for short- to medium-length fur, regular use will keep cats’ fur healthy and manageable. Using unique, two-tiered teeth technology that’s gentle on cats’ fur and skin, the long teeth gently detangle and remove knots, while the shorter teeth remove loose hairs and smooth the fur. The fun paw-shaped design makes it easy to use and hold, and it can be used on wet or dry hair. us.tangleteezer.com
Call (717) 691-3388 ext 224 to place a Classified. Rates: 25 words or less, $50.00. Each additional word, $2.00 each. Classified ads must be prepaid. Call for issue deadlines. Agency discounts do not apply.
CLASSIFIEDS
Retiring owner, after 33 years, busy established dog grooming business
- Loyal customer base
- New clientele every week
- Fully equipped grooming stations
- Prime location in Chicagoland area
- Desirable location in upper-middle-class neighborhood
- Has capacity to accomodate additional groomers; spacious, bright, clean, and open shop
- Designated, private, cat grooming area
- Laundry
- Office
- Hassle-free parking
Call broker Larry at 630.796.0070, EXT: 1, for more details. Email: lswanson@tworld.com