The second most common obstacle is the hair that grows in and around the ear, sometimes reaching into the canal or blocking the passage in and out of the ear. This hair is essential for the functioning of the ear, but when it overgrows, it creates an issue. The purpose of the hair is to block debris from getting into the ear, but it can also block things from getting out of the ear, setting the dog up for ear infections. This creates one of the most controversial subjects we deal with in grooming—to pluck or not to pluck. And if you asked 10 veterinarians, you would probably get 15 opinions. With that in mind, I will tell you my take on it…

The hair serves the purpose of filtering things out, so if we remove it all, then we destroy that function. Some dogs will have nasty infections if we leave it all, so it makes sense to meet halfway in the middle. We must remove some of the hair but leave enough to maintain the filtration system.

The next concern is how you remove it and who should remove it. I recommend plucking the hairs from the inside of the ear (shallow root system) to a level that re-establishes a healthy filtration system. I DO NOT recommend using the old “grab as much hair and twist with the hemostat” method. It is very painful, and often, the person can’t see the tip of the hemostats; unbeknownst to them, they frequently pinch the tissue with the tips and cause damage to the ear canal that they can’t even see.

As a routine practice, I would teach owners when they brought in puppies of breeds prone to ear issues how to pluck and encouraged them to pluck a few hairs regularly so they never would be allowed to overgrow. This also serves as a training purpose of having the dog get used to the procedure.

In addition to hair, there are many other sources of problems that can plague the ear. Most of the time, when discussing ears, we jump to ear infections as the problem. In reality, ear infections are often secondary to other issues that may or may not be obvious. It is a consensus that food and inhalant allergies will irritate the ear, leading to secondary bacterial or yeast infections.

When discussing ear issues, it is essential to consider that the ear is an extension of the skin and is very sebaceous. So, anything that will cause problems on the skin can cause issues in the ear, such as trauma, harsh products (like alcohol and detergents), parasites, foreign bodies, hormonal issues, etc.

Many of the issues associated with ears are hard for a groomer to observe because they occur in the ear canal. Ear powder deep in the ear is one of these conditions that often can only be observed with an otoscope. Ear powder was never designed to be put directly in the ear (despite what is said on some labels). It is not an epilation powder and doesn’t dry the ear, as many believe. When it gets deep in the ear, it mixes with the oils and moisture of the ear and makes a lovely rue or gravy, which is impossible for the dog to shake out. It is not uncommon for a veterinarian to remove a half-inch to an inch of debris after this powder is put in the ear. Unfortunately, this must be done under anesthesia and at an expense owners are not thrilled with.

Foreign bodies are a common problem for veterinarians. Foxtails or grass awns are probably the most common in my practice. These are barbed, and once they start down an ear canal, they don’t back out and are not easily dislodged by a dog shaking its head. They often progress to the point where they puncture the eardrum, leading to an infection of the middle ear.

Ticks and mites are also common inhabitants of the ears. Most people have heard of or seen mites in pets’ ears but are not as familiar with ticks deep in the ear canals. A specific type of tick that is actually common in cattle can and will inhabit the ear of the dog. On one occasion, I removed 14 of these ticks from one dog’s ear, all the size of a raisin.

As groomers you will get the opportunity to see many of these conditions, most of which are not advised that you treat or recommend any medication for, because without being able to observe the eardrum, you cannot determine the safety of a product relative to if it might enter the middle ear. Ear plucking, on the other hand (as long as you are just using your fingers), is in the realm of routine care and can and should be done as a groomer as long as there is no infection…in this veterinarian’s opinion.

Dr. Cliff Faver graduated with a BS in Biology/BA in Chemistry before getting a Veterinary degree in 1987. He is the past owner of Animal Health Services in Cave Creek, Arizona and now the US distributor for Iv San Bernard products, teaches the ISB Pet Aesthetician Certification program, and speaks internationally on hair and skin. His passion is to merge groomers and veterinarians to aid in helping and healing pets. He is also a member of AVMA, AAHA, AZVMA, Board member with Burbank Kennel Club, and has served on Novartis Lead Committee, Hill’s International Global Veterinary Board, and a Veterinary Management Group.

Another example is a Westie, whom I cared for from his first grooming experience until he died in his teens. About a year before he died, he suddenly became challenging to groom, a departure from our long history together. He acted as if being groomed was painful, no matter how gentle I was. His owner became quite defensive when I tried to discuss the changes, but took the dog to his veterinarian, resulting in an exam that showed no apparent signs of illness. The dog declined rapidly after this, losing weight, muscle tone and coat, and becoming increasingly difficult to handle. His littermate, who lived with him, remained unchanged. His owners finally had the poor, unhappy dog euthanized. Although he never received a concrete diagnosis, I believe there was a physical reason for his behavioral and physical changes.

One crucial aspect of managing atopic dermatitis is restoring or maintaining the skin’s epidermis, the outermost layer. When the skin barrier is compromised, allergens and irritants can more easily penetrate, leading to increased itching and inflammation. To address this, ceramide-based products can be used to enhance skin hydration and strengthen the overall barrier function.

According to animal dermatologists, ceramides, along with fatty acids, help control water loss in the epidermis. By utilizing ceramide-based products, groomers can aid in improving the skin barrier’s health and reducing the severity of itching experienced by dogs with atopic dermatitis.

While groomers can provide some relief for dogs with atopic dermatitis, it is essential to work closely with veterinarians to ensure comprehensive care. Veterinarians can diagnose the condition, prescribe medication if necessary and provide guidance on longterm management strategies. By collaborating with veterinarians, groomers can offer a holistic approach to addressing the needs of dogs with atopic dermatitis.

The research conducted in this study has shed light on the connection between itching severity and problematic behavior in dogs with atopic dermatitis. By recognizing the impact of the condition on a dog’s mental wellbeing, as groomers, we can take steps to alleviate their discomfort and improve their overall quality of life by providing relief through symptom management and collaboration with veterinarians for comprehensive care. Together we can make a difference in the lives of dogs suffering from atopic dermatitis and strengthen the bond between humans and their furry companions.

1. The Itchy Dog Project. School of Veterinary Medicine and Science University of Nottingham. https://www.nottingham.ac.uk/research/groups/itchy-dog/

Kim Kier is the owner/groomer of Little Barks Grooming & Boutique, an award-winning luxury salon in Columbia, South Carolina. She is also a Master Pet Aesthetician, Professional Grooming Credential (World Pet Association), Master Groomer Behavior Specialist, Fear Free Certified Professional , Low Stress Handling Certified Level Silver Certified, and Certified Puppy Consultant. Kim has recently been honored to be named “Grooming Guru” by Pet Product News International for 2023.

athy Rose didn’t set out to change the grooming industry, but she left her indelible mark wherever she went. Throughout her career, whenever she saw something that needed done, she would accept the challenge, saying, “I have work to do.” She took on those tasks joyfully and did not stop until she was satisfied she had done her best.

With a voracious appetite for learning and mostly self-taught, Kathy became certified by the NDGAA and ISCC, and also achieved her entire International Professional Groomers Master Certification in one weekend. And, just 18 months into her grooming career, she became a business owner when she purchased her salon, Pets of Perfection, in Boynton Beach, Florida.

Kathy did a lot of specialty grooming in her salon and was one of the pioneers in the creative grooming arena. In the beginning, creative was not so much the intense, bold colors we see today, but intricate coat carvings—a skill that came naturally to Kathy.

Her grooming talents were also showcased when she entered into the world of competitive dog grooming. Kathy achieved multiple “Best in Show” awards and quickly qualified to be a member of the prestigious GroomTeam USA, in which she took part in earning four consecutive gold and silver medals. She later became the GroomTeam USA Coordinator and led several teams to victory in international competitions.

It wasn’t only the grooming competitions that she loved; Kathy also loved the groomers. Helping them attain their best was of the utmost importance to her, and she would take the time to answer questions and help anyone who asked her.

Tammy Siert, one of those early competitors, recalls her relationship with Kathy: “When I entered the grooming world in 1990, I vividly remember a trip to Intergroom to see the grooming competition that brought groomers from all over the world,” Tammy says. “It was my first time meeting Kathy. I told her I had been working at a salon while in college and was thinking about becoming a groomer. She encouraged me to ‘do it!’—and I did.

“As my skills increased, I entered a competition,” Tammy continues. “Kathy was a judge and was the ring coordinator for Barkleigh. She was always smiling and encouraging. Years later, I was the secretary for GroomTeam USA and Kathy became a board member. Kat and I really became close and got to know each other on a personal level. We spent time judging together in Brazil. For me it was yet another learning opportunity; getting to judge with someone who had so much experience.

“Our friendship of more than 30 years started with Kathy’s friendly ‘Hi’ to me at Intergroom,” Tammy adds. “She gave me inspiration early on in my career, then became my judge, mentor, and someone I looked up to. Then it went full circle when I had the joy and privilege of working with her at industry events.”

Kathy Rose gave of her time and talents unselfishly. When she took on a project, she worked tirelessly to see it through. One monumental undertaking was when Kathy helped to iron out the protocol and formalities of the contest ring to bring consistency and standardize the contest rules. She looked at and studied all sides of the rules—weighing the good and the bad of each. In the end, Kathy led the way to creating consistent rules for grooming competitions at the shows throughout America, which provided competitors the peace of mind knowing that the rules would be the same at every show. However, getting all of the show promoters to accept and implement the standardized rules didn’t happen overnight. There was a lot of behind-the-scenes work that had to be done.

Many owners do not understand that poor oral health links to liver, kidney, heart and lung disease. This is because bacteria from food remains enter the bloodstream through bleeding gums and travel throughout the body. Over time, it weakens the immune system, impacting those organs. By educating clients on the importance of good dental hygiene, they can increase the life of their beloved pets. Many veterinary professionals estimate that an increase in life expectancy can be as high as three to five years. And, remember to mention the savings in veterinarian bills if the pet is healthier.

Keep in mind that it may not be negligence on the owner’s part; they may simply not be aware of the consequences. You should start by opening up a dialogue with the client to educate them—do not ridicule or demean them, and show compassion in your approach. The nose-to-tail assessment is an excellent time to talk to your client regarding the signs of periodontal disease.

Signs a groomer may notice include:

• Flinching or pulling away from you
• Quivering lips
• Growling, snapping or hissing (cats)
• Red, swollen or bleeding gums
• Tartar
• Visible root or bulge of the crown of the tooth
• Open sores on face, jaw or mouth
• Ulcers in mouth
• Bad breath

If you notice any of the above, ask the owner if they’ve seen their pet rubbing their face on the carpet, floor or furniture, or if the pet seems to have difficulty eating, is exhibiting a loss of appetite or begging more for the owner’s softer food. Also ask if the pet sleeping more than usual. All of these signs point to periodontal disease. There may be instances when the periodontal disease is too advanced for the owner to rectify independently; therefore, such clients should refer to a veterinarian professional to discuss available options for their pet.

Periodontal disease develops over time in a series of stages when the build-up of food particles and bacteria form plaque along the gum line. Plaque is a milky-white film that develops on teeth every day. Not removing plaque combines with minerals in saliva to form tartar (also called calculus), which only takes three to five days. Calculus irritates gum tissue and leads to gingivitis. Inflammation caused by gingivitis will work down the root canal, causing the tooth to loosen. Gingivitis will separate the gums from the teeth and form pockets that harbor abscesses, leading to bone loss, which can be very painful.

The part identifying oral issues plays in increasing your bottom line is twofold. First, as mentioned previously, it can add an extra three to five years to the pet’s life, so you have a grooming client that much longer. And second, you can profit from retail sales. Even if you have limited retail space, most dental products are relatively small and take up little room. Financially, it does not make sense to spend time talking about products and then sending your client to a retailer who makes the sale. However, be sure you are familiar with the products you carry so that you can help your clients choose which works best for their individual pet and instruct them on the product’s use.

The array of pet dental care products is vast, but here are some that can be offered in your retail area, starting with minimum effort to maximum effort needed from the client to put them to use:

• Good-quality dental treats that do not contain hidden sugars such as beet pulp, molasses, birch sugar or fructose.
• Dental toys that either have raised nubs or strings. The nubs massage the gums, loosen plaque and strengthen the muscles in the jaw. The string toys act as floss.
• Water additives, which simply get added to the pet’s water bowl.
• Chlorohexidine wipes, which are tooth wipes treated with a solution of chlorohexidine to kill bacteria.
• Dental gels, which get rubbed on or applied to the gum.
• Pet toothbrushes and toothpaste. Be sure to caution owners not to use human toothpaste, as they contain detergents and fluoride that may cause gastric upset if swallowed by the pet.

Educating your clients on the importance of developing and maintaining a pet dental program benefits the pet owner with a pet that lives a longer, healthier life. And at the end of the day, isn’t that why we do what we do?

The best option for HV dryers are the ones that have a variable speed so that they can be turned on a low setting and gradually increased based on the cat’s tolerance. Also, starting with no nozzle (instead of the popular cone-style attachment) where the mouth of the opening is wider can help cats with acclimating to the sound and feel of the air flow. Non-heated HV dryers can be used close to the cat’s skin, literally blasting the dead hair out from the skin level, which is the best way to get a beautiful, fluffy finish.

These dryers are typically much lower in sound and power than HV dryers, making them easier for cats to be introduced to. Being able to use both hands also means you can focus on handling or moving the cat so that their head and ears aren’t in the direct path of the air. You also have more control over which areas of the body are being dried at a time, increasing efficiency.

However, using a lower-powered dryer means it will take a good bit longer to fully dry the cat compared to an HV dryer, and will require brushing or combing to fully remove the excess dead hair and any minor mats. Some cats may not tolerate the additional brushing or the additional time needed with this style of dryer, so it is best to use these for final fluff-drying or limited-area finish-drying like heads and tails.

The key to a successful introduction to blow-drying lies in gradual acclimatization. Here’s how to ease your cat into the process:

• Start Young. If possible, introduce kittens to blow-drying and grooming early. Younger cats adapt more quickly to new experiences, including the sounds and sensations associated with blow-drying.
• Control a Calm Environment. Before you start, ensure the grooming area is quiet and free from other stressors. Limit interruptions and uncontrolled loud noises like dogs barking, doors slamming shut, phones ringing, etc.
• Use Head/Ear Coverings. Part of introducing new, louder noises can be muffling those sounds to make some cats feel safer. A small towel, Happy Hoodie, or even an e-collar or muzzle can prevent air from blowing directly into their ears or face. Even sweet, compliant cats may benefit from one of these options in order to keep them happy while drying the majority of the body, legs, chest, belly and tail. Then only around the head and face are done without the additional muffling.
• Practice Desensitization. Before using the dryer on the cat, let it get used to the sound. Turn the dryer on a few feet away from the cat, allowing it to observe and listen from a safe distance. Gradually bring it closer, making sure to adjust based on the cat’s reactions.
• Mind the Temperature. Always use a low heat setting to avoid overheating or burning the cat’s skin. The sensation should be warm and soothing, not hot.
• Start on the Sides. I’ve found the most success in starting the drying process on the cat’s sides around the ribcage. This is far enough from the head and face to not freak them out, but also not close to the rear end, which can stimulate them to pee. Hold the HV nozzle close to the skin and work in small circles; not in jerky or fast movements.
• Work on Legs and Underside Early On. If a cat is going to lose patience during the blow-drying, the last thing you want to be working on are the areas that are more difficult to get to, like the legs and belly. Instead, follow the cat as they walk or shift around so that you can focus on the inner legs and belly as much as you can early on in blow-drying. You’ll most likely need to go back to those areas if the cat doesn’t want to be handled or moved to reach them.

The majority of cats in my cat grooming salon are blow-dried entirely with an HV dryer with either no nozzle or a flat, water-peeler-style nozzle. I utilize Happy Hoodies and an e-collar or muzzle, depending on the cat, to keep air away from their face. This lets me dry the rest of the cat thoroughly before working gradually around the head.

Occasionally, I won’t use the HV dryer around their head and face, instead letting them sit under a low fan for the last 10-15 minutes of drying in a cage dryer to finish around those areas, making sure to comb those areas a few times so the hair doesn’t clump together. Over several grooms, a cat can better be introduced to different drying methods and you’ll be able to finish around the head and face without causing too much stress.

For the legs and underside, I will either roll them gently onto their sides or lift up under their armpits or belly while the cat stands. I make sure the cat’s bodyweight is supported by their legs, which prevents the cat from lifting and tucking their legs so I am better able to blow-dry the crooks of those areas more thoroughly. Gently lifting one leg also lets me reach underneath to dry the inside of the opposite leg.

The flat or water-peeler-style nozzles are my favorite for cat legs and paws. I only use them on longer hair while holding the dryer a bit further from the skin so as not to whip the long hair around. Short, dense hair will take a surprising amount of time to dry, so do not neglect to get those areas dry all the way to the skin.

By incorporating these techniques and tips into your grooming routine, you can ensure that the blow-drying experience is safe and comfortable for both you and your feline clients.

leaning a well-behaved dog’s ears can be a simple task with a little bit of practice; however, for many pet owners, it can still be a challenge to maintain their dog’s ear health between grooming appointments. Without a professional setup, dogs might move around or run away from the owner during ear cleaning. In addition to trying to settle a wiggly dog, not everyone feels comfortable with the task.

As a groomer, clients will often seek your advice on how to clean their dog’s ears at home. Questions about how frequently to clean their dog’s ears and which techniques to use are common. By preparing yourself to address these common questions, you can confidently advise your clients on ear cleaning. Groomers can also suggest that owners consult their veterinarian about the frequency of ear cleaning and specific products.

Many dogs will need ear cleaning between grooming visits because they don’t come to the salon frequently enough for ear maintenance, or are prone to dirty ears. All dogs should have their ears checked regularly at home and cleaned as needed to maintain ear health. Factors such as ear type, lifestyle and diet influence how often a dog needs ear cleaning. For many breeds, ear cleaning between grooming appointments is necessary.

For clients who struggle with the task at home, when asked what challenges they have, two main ones are revealed. Firstly, the dog may be too difficult to handle. The dog’s behavior complicates the cleaning process, turning a simple task into a stressful one for the owner. Secondly, many owners fear hurting their dog. Once they have an understanding of the techniques and the anatomy of their dog’s ears, owners will usually gain confidence in ear cleaning if the dog is cooperative.

When owners engage in their dog’s maintenance between appointments, issues like ear infections can be prevented. That’s why it’s crucial for owners to understand that at-home maintenance is important, otherwise they may assume their dog’s ears are clean and will be taken care of at their next grooming appointment. Groomers can encourage owners to regularly check their dog’s ears and clean them with veterinarian-approved solutions between appointments. For dogs needing medical attention for ear problems, groomers should always refer clients to a veterinarian.

To provide ear cleaning tips for even the busiest owners, start by encouraging clients to simply check their dog’s ears regularly. Being able to look in the ears while the dog is still is a crucial first step. Some dogs may move away, so training them to stay can be helpful.

Practicing “stay” on a designated grooming station at home, such as a towel or raised bed, helps the dog understand what is expected. This step is a prerequisite for at-home grooming. Duration is then gradually increased as the dog is reinforced for remaining on the home-grooming station.

Another useful exercise is teaching the dog to rest their chin in the owner’s hand through target training. This way the dog learns to stay with minimal holding. The target can then be transferred to an object such as a folded towel so that the owner has both hands free to handle the ears.

ure, “no” is a complete sentence. I can’t just say “no” to a client, though. Well…I could, but why would I want to? Tactful communication does not have to be rude or passive; tactful communication can have boundaries. Just saying “no” is flat-out unprofessional, in my opinion of course. Old clients, new clients, potential clients, former clients, ALL clients are due the same level of clear-headed, unemotional, straight-to-the-point, slightly personal, tactful responses.

Sure, you can loosen up with long-time clients; however, be aware that it could backfire at some point. After all, this is a business and you are a professional. Clients are not friends, no matter how much we want them to be or treat them as such. Never apologize for setting clear boundaries and enforcing policies or procedures. Remember, the only people who get upset when you set boundaries are those who benefitted from you not having any.

If you struggle with explanations like I do, then this article is for you! I will walk you through some common client questions and ways to respond, as well as an example of firing a client.

If a client is persistent or non-negotiable, then just forfeit the services and fire the client. Life is too short to argue over the safety of an animal. Keep in mind, YOU are the professional and your recommendations go above what a client wants. They aren’t always aware of what’s best. Communicate with confidence and the client will instantly feel more comfortable with your suggestions.

I prefer to fire clients via text. Not only does it keep a record of communication, but it also allows time for tactful responses. You never want to send an emotional-filled response. Taking the time to write out a professional response is important. Here’s an example of a text I would send to let a client go:

Always remember that you do not owe a client any explanation; however, you do owe it to your business to conduct yourself in a professional manner at all times. You could be firing a client because they are aggressive (pet or owner), excessively tardy, never show up, too picky, bad attitude, price haggling, etc.—whatever the reason is, it’s a valid reason.

The number-one way to fight groomer burnout is to remove clients and their pets from your schedule who cause you any grief. If you see a name on your schedule and you dread coming to work that day because of them, then they don’t need to be your client anymore. Saying “no” (in a professional, polite way) will rejuvenate your passion for grooming and make your days more enjoyable.