Human personality traits have been studied as far back as in ancient Greek societies. Contemporary psychological theory holds that there are five basic personality traits common in humans. Each category covers a range between extremes, with most people falling in the center of each group. The commonly accepted “Big Five” are Openness, Conscientiousness, Extroversion, Agreeableness, and Neuroticism.²

A United Kingdom’s Kennel Club study compared over 1,500 pet owners of 16 common dog breeds to these five human personality traits. They concluded that “…people who enjoy new experiences, have many hobbies, and enjoy taking risks are more likely to own Whippets, while those who are positive and happy often had Golden Retrievers. Owners with strong organizational skills who preferred to stick to the rules had Miniature Schnauzers, and people ranking the highest on agreeableness and extroversion owned Pomeranians. Finally, those who ranked themselves as being most affectionate tended to pick Staffordshire Bull Terriers, while owners of Jack Russell Terriers (often described as very friendly dogs) described themselves in similar terms.”³

I recently discussed this topic with one of my grooming customers who is a psychiatrist. She was interested in the idea of people choosing pets based on their personality type but added, “A lot of people buy into a type of dog because it’s a fad,” and cited the current overwhelming popularity of any dog mixed with a Poodle.

Sometimes people are attracted to a dog breed because of stereotypical perceptions of its characteristics and by that breed’s physical appearance. For instance, I know someone who loves the look of Siberian Huskies and considers the fact that they work in conjunction with humans to pull a sled means they would be good companions. However, they failed to consider the breed’s need for extensive physical exercise, and that they are bred to think for themselves and bore easily living in a city apartment with only a brief leash walk twice a day. In this case, the human’s perception did not match the reality of the breed’s true personality, and the dog had to be re-homed.

Becoming educated on a breed’s actual personality rather than relying on stereotypes is highly recommended. One good way to begin is to research what the dog was initially bred to do. For example, consider the beautiful Dalmatian. These dogs were developed to accompany horse-drawn coaches and protect the vehicle and the horses. So, by deciding on this breed, you are signing up for an active dog that requires exercise and mental challenges. You can also expect that this breed might have protective tendencies and probably won’t be overly friendly with other dogs (one of their jobs would have been keeping dogs away from their coach.)

Additionally, one’s lifestyle should influence the type of dog one chooses. Large, active families with children and friends in and out of the house all day would be unwise to choose a breed with strong protective tendencies. More sedate people who prefer to stay at home and be quiet should not select a very active breed.

The space available to share with a pet should also weigh in on what type of dog is desirable. A 15-acre pasture is likely wasted on a Toy Poodle but would be much appreciated by a Standard Poodle. Likewise, a studio apartment would be confining for a Newfoundland but might be just right for a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.

Understanding what our personality traits say about us and learning what to expect from dog breeds that appeal to our tastes is an ideal way to choose a canine companion who will fit our lifestyle well.

1. Pappas, S. (2012, April 20). What Your Dog’s Breed Says About You. Animal Health Foundation. https://www.animalhealthfoundation.org/blog/2012/04/chosen-dog-breed-may-reflect-personality-traits/
2. Cherry, K. (2023, March 11). What Are the Big 5 Personality Traits? Very Well Mind. https://www.verywellmind.com/the-big-five-personality-dimensions-2795422
3. Ionescu, A. (2022, October 11). People select their dogs according to their own personality. Earth.com. https://www.earth.com/news/people-select-their-dogs-according-to-their-own-personality/

The Shetland Sheepdog, like the Collie, traces to the Border Collie of Scotland, which, transported to the Shetland Islands and crossed with small, intelligent, longhaired breeds, was reduced to miniature proportions. . . This breed now bears the same relationship in size and general appearance to the Rough Collie as the Shetland Pony does to some of the larger breeds of horses. Although the resemblance between the Shetland Sheepdog and the Rough Collie is marked, there are differences which may be noted. The Shetland Sheepdog is a small, alert, rough-coated, longhaired working dog. He must be sound, agile and sturdy. The outline should be so symmetrical that no part appears out of proportion to the whole. Dogs should appear masculine; bitches feminine.¹

Shetland Sheepdogs, like most profusely coated breeds, will go through a visible change in their coat during puberty. Coat change in Shelties may start as early as six months, with visibly longer, stronger, better-pigmented and more protective adult topcoat, or guard hairs, coming in along the spine. Eventually as puberty progresses, the minimally protective puppy coat will be replaced by this beautiful, plush, long double coat. Show-bred lines will often have more profuse coat than pet-quality dogs, where breeders pay less attention to breed standards.

Spayed and neutered long double-coated breeds like Shelties can often develop much more profuse coat. Their underline, front and rear leg furnishings, and tail should be lightly shaped to stay up off the ground and keep their rear end neat. Outline trimming of the underline and furnishings is best done with thinning shears, not scissors, as they are to appear natural, not with a lined edge. But the most important rule is that the topcoat, or guard hairs, must always remain longer than the insulating undercoat.

The Shetland Sheepdog AKC Breed Standard says this of their magnificent coats: “The coat should be double, the outer coat consisting of long, straight, harsh hair; the undercoat short, furry, and so dense as to give the entire coat its ‘standoff’ quality. The hair on face, tips of ears and feet should be smooth. Mane and frill should be abundant, and particularly impressive in males. The forelegs well feathered, the hind legs heavily so, but smooth below the hock joint. Hair on tail profuse. Note: Excess hair on ears, feet, and on hocks may be trimmed for the show ring.” ¹

A thorough line brushing through the entire torso will gently remove any shedding undercoat hairs. A long-tined soft slicker with pliable tines is best. Training a Sheltie to lay on one side and then the other is easy with these smart dogs. Be consistent with training to lay down for brushing when they are young, and they will learn to relax and love your grooming sessions with them. To line brush, the groomer makes a part in the coat and holds it open with one hand while pulling small lines of coat through with the brush or wide-toothed comb. This systematic approach will keep the owner happy with less shedding at home, and as with all dogs, they should be groomed monthly.

There has been a fad of late in our grooming industry which we see a lot, for example, in Pomeranians. This fad pretends to protect the double coat by only scissoring an “outline” as opposed to taking clippers to it, which are even worse in their destructive effect. The groomer will tightly scissor a double-coated dog like a Sheltie, or even a triple-coated like a Pomeranian, to equalize the outer topcoat hairs with the insulating undercoat hairs. This creates a very “artistic-appearing” puffy and plush outline. The only problem is that it is very destructive to the natural double-coated dog. This would “equalize” the length of the primary and secondary hairs, which, in turn, would lead to an explosion of undercoat growth that would eventually crowd out the vital topcoat hairs, destroying the amazing and beautiful balance with this natural coat type.

Shelties may sometimes need matt removal from behind their ears or thinning and shaping so as to prevent matting. All that soft coat behind their ears is undercoat that, unlike topcoat, can and should be trimmed. The ear set on the Sheltie is very distinctive and quite adorable with their semi-prick ears. The groomer should spend most of their grooming time at the front of the dog, holding the ears erect with their hands, in order to best assess the front-on view of the regal neck rough as it frames the head. Use thinning shears to shape stray hairs in the “mane” or rough area of the neck so as to frame their unique semi-prick ears.

The Sheltie’s hocks, where the undercoat can densely pack, can be combed out to poof up nicely. They should be scissored into two perfect columns when viewed from behind. Stack up the dog to evaluate them from front, side and rear views. With some “corrective grooming” (making the dog appear closer to its breed standard than it really is), the hocks can be corrected to look like they have more bone or a straighter line by taking away more hair or leaving more hair in your scissoring.

These delightful dogs are a joy to be around and to groom. When the Sheltie breeders in your area hear of your commitment to groom these magnificent dogs correctly, they will no doubt spread the word and send more clients your way!

1. Official Standard of the Shetland Sheepdog. AKC. https://images.akc.org/pdf/breeds/standards/ShetlandSheepdog.pdf

So, what are the most important things to look at? First is always the “signalment,” which means the basic information. These are things like age, breed, general health, nature of the skin issues, type of lesions present, pattern of lesions, etc.

Age, for example, starts narrowing or directing our list of possible diseases. If I see a young dog with very itchy skin, my major rule-outs are dry skin and demodectic mites. If I see an old dog that has symmetrical hair loss, I start thinking of some type of hormonal or metabolic disease (liver, kidney, etc.).

We also see many pets with breed-specific issues, so we always need to consider whether the signs are consistent with the diseases the breed is prone to. Here are a few of the more common diseases that we see:

Sadly, many of these conditions are diagnosed as allergies or deemed non-treatable. Given the cause, most of these are “non-curable” conditions but can be significantly improved using the right products and techniques to fit the disease. If you are not aware of the source, the wrong approach is often taken.

If you have a dog with a skin issue following a certain pattern, that is also a big clue. For example, if it is an allergy to a plant or pollen that causes a reaction from breathing in the pollen and manifests as a whole-body reaction, the scratching will be generalized. Or, if we have a dog with bad ears, inflammation around the anus, reddened underbelly and itchy paws, then we start thinking about food allergies. If the scratching and hair loss is from the rib cage back, we need to consider flea bite dermatitis (inflammation/infection of the skin). But if we are dealing with symmetrical hair loss, then we need to think of a whole-body issue. If it is patchy or not symmetrical, then we think more of infection (usually secondary).

While grooming any of the three AKC-recognized poodle varieties may seem intimidating to newcomers, learning to groom poodles is considered one of the best ways to improve overall grooming skills. Their coats require an eye for balance, specialized preparation and advanced techniques that sharpen a groomer’s expertise. Mastering poodle grooming isn’t just about styling—it’s about refining skills that apply to all breeds.

Poodles are a favorite of competitive groomer Yiyeon Bardo, who began her grooming career in Korea in 1997 under a Master Groomer. She has seen the evolution of poodle grooming firsthand: “In Korea in the late ‘90s and early 2000s, most grooming was a number seven all over, leaving only the ears, tail, and head in a cone shape. Sometimes Sporting or Miami clips were more advanced options,” Yiyeon recalls.

She also notes that there were some differences between popular styles in the U.S. at that time, but today, the global style is becoming more unified: “In the mid-to-late 2000s, poodle grooming usually involved cuts shorter than an inch, with the same length all over. The face was often left with a teddy bear shape, but it was usually boxy and less refined than today’s styles,” Yiyeon explains.

Her expertise has earned her numerous accolades, including first place with a Toy Poodle at the All American Grooming Show in 2013 and second place at the Poodle Club of America Grooming Competition in 2019.

One of Yiyeon’s top tips is paying attention to the individual dog’s needs. Another tip she shares is that poodles in the salon with sensitive skin shouldn’t have their face and feet clipped as short. She also explains that checking the placement of where the “V” or “U” is set on the neck is crucial, as small details can make a big difference in the final look.

Grooming poodles is a career-long process. There’s always room to grow, and as groomers develop their skills, the breed continuously teaches them new techniques.

Amber Scott, a poodle groomer and pet stylist, discovered her love for the breed during grooming school: “I had never had any experience with poodles before then,” explains Amber. “The dogs were amazing to me, and they were so regal.”

A year after completing grooming school, Amber got her first poodle and has been passionate about the breed ever since. She enjoys all aspects of poodle ownership, from grooming to participating in dog sports.

For anyone trying to master poodle trims, Amber recommends hands-on experience: “If you’re serious about learning, get a poodle. If you already have one, find a mentor or explore online resources,” she shares.

He explains that drying, lifting, and combing techniques specific to poodles is what really sets the stage for a polished result.

Lakhi describes the moment when many students realize how important the prep work is: “When you cut that first layer and you see that beautiful, plush coat underneath, I think that is when a lot of students get that ‘aha’ moment,” he shares.

Her own poodle loves hunting and swimming, and Megan has found ways to allow her dog to enjoy these activities while maintaining a show coat: “It’s her favorite thing to do, so I make sure she can still enjoy it,” she explains.

Poodles are versatile, elegant and endlessly captivating. For many groomers, it’s impossible not to fall in love with this breed. Poodles teach groomers about coat care and the importance of preparation—a skill that can be applied to all dogs. For both seasoned professionals and groomers just starting out, grooming poodles is a journey that constantly challenges and inspires.

In an industry where each breed has a different standard, should each groomer have a different personal standard as well? What does the word “standard” even represent? Perfection? Expectation? What standard do you hold yourself and your team to?

Though it has become second nature for humans to compare themselves, in no way shape or form should we compare ourselves to others. These comparisons float through our brains even when we are unaware of the standards that individuals are upholding themselves to. Nor are we aware of the differences that people are experiencing, which may cause variations in struggles and strengths. This toxic judgement has stemmed from a world of expectations that far surpasses the grooming industry, but within our community it is seen daily—and social media has amplified this, for better or worse.

Despite at times wishing it would go away for good, social media is a way we reach our peers, clients and potential clients. So, for the sake of grooming and humanity, it is our duty to treat others with respect and dignity. For example, someone posts a Miniature Schnauzer “breed standard” trim and asks for constructive criticism. Fabulous, right?! They are looking for help in boosting their abilities to uphold a general standard. What is not great is bashing someone within that same space.

These negative words are likely formed out of personal insecurities, which are then projected via a keyboard and behind the safety of a screen. Instead, we have the opportunity to recognize that our personal standard and the standard of that individual may not be aligned, and that is perfectly okay. Which, going even deeper, can be broken down into years of experience, desire to improve, security in their confidence to take and grow from constructive criticism, and just plain curiosity.

Close to two decades ago, when I was learning how to groom, we were taught breed standards. No puppy cuts or teddy bear trims. These standards have always been something that I have kept in the back of my mind, even when conforming to new “standards,” which our clientele may seek.

The standard for many businesses is not show-ring worthy. And this is not because our skills are not at this level, but rather because the dogs we groom are likely not a fit. This change in standard and expectation can trickle down into groomers losing their ability to remember patterns and proper lines. However, this is no fault of their own, but caused by the way that we continue to grow and change to best support our clients. At times, this ever-spinning wheel of cut styles can be overwhelming.

Whether it’s remembering different patterns, running a business, supporting your family or just trying to have a hobby, our brains are straining for any spare space to breathe. However, for those who have too much on their plate but are avid members of the clean plate club, there are the 3 C’s of Cognitive Behavioral Therapy. The 3C’s stand for Catch it, Check it and Change it, and this coping skill might just be the best tool in your box this holiday season.

No one can determine how you feel except for yourself. Do you want that fresh Fox Terrier ruining the rest of your week? Or should you do as the tenacious terriers do and not let anything get in your way of a good time? Only you can decide!

So, in that moment of self-doubt, take a breath and ask yourself is this is worth the anxiety and frustration. Work through the 3C’s, and if you are truly unsure, take a moment to view it from a different perspective. Would you want someone you care about being stressed and anxious due to the same trigger?

Using your innate empathy, you can have an outside introspective view and, more times than not, it’s what we need to remove the self-doubt. It is easier to care for others than for ourselves. This is evident in the love we put forth for our clients every day.

So, this holiday season, hopefully utilizing the 3C’s will allow your days to result in the other 3C’s: cookies, cheer and cash tips! You set the standard for how your holidays and new year will play out. Remove the stress and support yourself and others when you can. Most importantly, remind yourself that the standards in grooming are forever changing but the standards you set for yourself are up to you.

Reduce Bath Time: Remove undercoat or matting before the bath to shorten the time spent in the tub.

Minimize Noise Triggers: Use Happy Hoodies, cotton in the ears, and low-velocity drying and maintain a calm environment with fewer dogs around.

Slow Introductions to New Things: Gradually introduce them to new experiences and “scary” things to reduce anxiety.

Change the Scenery: If a dog is scared of the tub, try moving them to another room for drying. If they enjoy being outside, have the owner brush them outside. If they like the tub but dislike the table, perform as much grooming as possible in the tub.

Address Pain Points: Utilize equipment like hip bands and adjustable-height tubs/tables. If a dog struggles with restraint, have an assistant present to help distract or comfort them.

Adjust End Expectations: Avoid unnecessary finishing touches if the dog is stressed. Never push a dog to its limits.

Charge for Time Spent: While time is money, it shouldn’t come at the expense of the dog’s wellbeing. Be sure to charge for the extra time spent to make the dog as comfortable as possible.

By using creative professionalism to guide owners in understanding their pets’ needs, we can make our jobs easier and foster better communication without judgment, offering our expertise in finding trusting solutions for shy pets. After all, our expertise isn’t just in delivering a great haircut—it’s the total experience.

The following will explore the detailed grooming process—from bathing and blow-drying to trimming and fluffing—to ensure that your Persian is ready to impress the judges and stand out on the show floor.

Always consider this description when choosing products, tools and techniques to help get each cat as close to breed standard as their coat condition and texture will allow. Other breeds and coat textures require a different approach. For example, cats that have a flat-lying, silky coat should not be groomed where the coat is “standing off from the body” like the Persian standard states.

To get a voluminous coat, there should be little to no products weighing the coat down, primarily conditioners or sprays. A dusting with a small amount of finely milled powder can be used in spots to fade staining or absorb excess oils like stud tail, but too much will be noticeable to the judges. Judges do not want any noticeable powders or sprays in the coat. If using leave-in products during the show, the cat should be bathed afterwards so no product is left behind for the cat to lick off or for it to build up in the coat.

Once completely dry, use combs to remove any small clumps or tangles in the hair without trying to remove large amounts of undercoat. Short strokes in the direction the hair grows will get through the thick coat more efficiently without tugging or pulling. Immediately before bringing a Persian in front of the judges, check their coat for any knots or clumping of hair with a comb. A pin brush can also be used to fluff-up hair on the body, sides, ruff and tail.

The only area that may need a bit of sculpting is the face, which is called the “Persian Face Trim.” Persians are known for both roundness and fullness. Sculpting the face means a small amount of trimming immediately above the eyes and hand-plucking to define the cheeks.

Start by combing out the head with a small face comb to remove any clumps or excess dead hair. Then comb the hair immediately above the eyes forward. Use a pair of small curved scissors to trim away just enough hair to showcase their large, round eyes and ear tips, making sure not to snip the ears, any of the eyebrow whiskers or create any noticeable cuts in the hair. It should appear natural, not that it was noticeably trimmed.

Both pet and show Persians can have their faces trimmed/plucked, but show cats should not have any other trimming or shaving done. Even for pet cats, make sure you confirm with each client whether they want any trimming done, including the sanitary area and the toe tufts (the hair growing from between the paw pads), which should be left long and full as per the breed standard.

Staining of this hair can be difficult to remove because the eye area is very sensitive to products, so prevention of staining is key. After the area is wiped clean, pat the hair dry and then apply a small amount of eye powder to the hair beneath the eye. The powder causes a barrier to prevent discharge from staining the hair.

In conclusion, prepping a Persian for show requires meticulous attention to detail, an understanding of breed standards, and the right grooming techniques and products. By following a thorough bathing routine with the appropriate products, mastering the art of adding volume to their dense coat, and knowing when to trim or leave the coat natural, you can enhance the natural beauty of this elegant breed while adhering to show guidelines.