ats are extraordinary in many ways, but when it comes to hair and skin, do we need to do things differently with cats? We often want to look at each animal as unique, but there are more similarities than differences.

One of the most unique things about a cat is that their liver cannot process many drugs/toxins like a dog or a human can. We must be very aware of what cats may be sensitive to because it may take longer to work through their system. An example would be aspirin with cats. In vet school, we were told if you gave aspirin to a cat, you would kill them. But as more research was done, we found that we could give them a lower dose less frequently, and they did fine with it.

On the groomer side, many consider d-limonene fatal, but just like aspirin, it is about dosage and timing. There have been cases where d-limonene at six percent in a dog flea and tick product was used on a cat, and it passed. The worst a cat may see at a lower dose is slight nausea, drool or occasional vomiting. Many don’t realize that most shampoos and conditioners have small amounts of d-limonene for odor control. Shampoos and conditioners, since they are made of plant material, are not pleasing to the nose, so they need a little help.

Since ingredient lists don’t include amounts, it is next to impossible to evaluate the detriment or safety of products based on the list. Everything we use could be considered a controlled poison; even water can kill you in excess, but adequate amounts are vital for survival. It is always good to be aware of things that are potentially toxic to cats and check with the manufacturer or others who have used a product before mindlessly tying it on cats.

The density of the coat is another crucial difference we see in cats. They are considered double-coated but have a much denser coat than most dogs. Most double-coated dogs have a 1:12 primary to secondary hair ratio, whereas cats can have up to a 1:30 ratio. What does that mean to a groomer? That means cats rely on the dense coat to protect their very delicate skin. If we shave them down, it dramatically compromises the protection mechanism that the coat provides. As a result, the very vulnerable skin is now the first line of defense against toxins, bacteria, fungus, trauma and allergies, instead of the hair.

Cats have barbs on their tongue, so unlike dogs, they can comb/brush their hair. This is important for moving the oils through their coat and is why so many cats have such beautiful coats with limited human care. They do have a slightly higher oil production than we see in their canine counterparts. This becomes a problem if, in our grooming process, we strip too much of the oils (degrease) or if the cat has internal issues that cause abnormal sebum production. This will lead to matting, making it harder for cats to groom themselves adequately. These cats often matt severely and quit grooming, leading to the skin becoming excessively greasy. The natural response to this is to degrease the cat when it reaches this point, but this is the opposite of what we need to do.

The best technique for these cats is close (condition)-open (shampoo)-close (condition). The first close will break up the old sebum so that the excess oils can be removed in the shampoo stage, and then a great hydrating conditioner is added back in with the second close to soothe the skin and return the normal sebum layer.

I can say with one of my previous cats, when we did this, she went right back to grooming and taking care of herself. Most of her grooms would last three to four months before the issues returned. We would have groomed her more often, but with being feral, we had to pick our battles.

A cat’s denser coat is also helpful because it makes them less prone to ticks, fleas, allergies, trauma and temperature changes, if we maintain their coats appropriately. Maintaining the coat can be challenging at times because a cat’s personality plays a significant role in the level of care we can provide. They are usually not trained or asked to do anything in the home environment, so grooming is a new experience. Many love the process, while others, at best, tolerate it.

To be a good cat groomer, we must consider many things to get good results:

1. You only have a limited amount of time to complete the groom. So when they are done, typically you are done, too.
2. Less restraint is better with cats. They want to be in charge, and if they feel like they are losing control, you may have a cat from hell on your hands.
3. Do not degrease cats. Without their natural oils, it is tough for a cat to groom naturally, and it often ends in matting and shaving down.
4. Like other animals, a cat’s skin cycle is 21 days, so optimal grooming should be done every three to four weeks.
5. Cats are solitary animals, so other cats in the grooming area can be a source of stress/fear.
6. I highly recommend Feliway aerosolizers in every room a cat will be in. It is also a good idea to have the owner spray down their carriers with Feliway spray the night before to keep the cats calm on the ride to the salon.
7. It is best to have a separate holding and grooming room for cats. Cats have a perfect sense of pheromones and stress levels. If they are in the same room with dogs that have had their anal glands expressed (considered a stress response in dogs), exuding stress pheromones, barking, etc., that sounds and smells like a danger to a cat.
8. Many groomers that groom a mix of cats and dogs designate a cats-only day (Caturday!) or half day to minimize stress.
9. Be sure to work in closed-in areas to control a cat’s movement if it gets away from you.
10. Always have tools on-hand to help if a cat becomes a problem—things like gloves, muzzles, EZ nabber, big towels/blankets, etc. The goal is never to use them, but if you need them, you will be glad you have them.

Cats are cats; sometimes there are no rules for grooming them and they determine what we are going to do. However, it is still important to be aware of the differences in this species and do everything we can to keep them healthy, safe and comfortable.

Dr. Cliff Faver graduated with a BS in Biology/BA in Chemistry before getting a Veterinary degree in 1987. He is the past owner of Animal Health Services in Cave Creek, Arizona and now the US distributor for Iv San Bernard products, teaches the ISB Pet Aesthetician Certification program, and speaks internationally on hair and skin. His passion is to merge groomers and veterinarians to aid in helping and healing pets. He is also a member of AVMA, AAHA, AZVMA, Board member with Burbank Kennel Club, and has served on Novartis Lead Committee, Hill’s International Global Veterinary Board, and a Veterinary Management Group.

at grooming is so rewarding,” says Debra Norton, Certified Feline Master Groomer and owner of Whisker Tales Cat Grooming in Victoria, British Colombia. “Yes, it’s a job and yes, I get paid for it, but at the end of the day, it’s very gratifying because I know that I’ve helped that cat,” she adds.

For more than 30 years, Debra had a career that she loved in the healthcare industry, working in Canada and Saudi Arabia. A lifelong animal lover, Debra also worked in wild animal rescue and rescued cats in Canada and in the Middle East where she lived for 12 years.

“Ten years ago, I had my cat groomed by a CFMG and I asked how she got into grooming. She told me about the National Cat Groomers Institute in South Carolina where she got her certification. It sounded interesting and I thought it would be something I’d really like to do,” shares Debra.

“A few months later, I registered for the course at the NCGI,” she continues. “They sent me all of my study materials, and in November 2014, I took some time off from work and went to Greenville, South Carolina. There I did my hands-on training and exams and returned home a Certified Feline Master Groomer, a title that I am very proud of because of what it stands for. In the Spring of 2015, I returned to Greenville to do some private training with Danelle German, owner of the NCGI.

“I went into grooming with no previous experience,” Debra adds. “The training with NCGI gave me the tools I need to handle any grooming situation I may come across. The curriculum is excellent.” 

Debra continued to work full time at the hospital and groomed after work and on weekends. She officially retired at the end of 2022 and now only grooms cats.

“It didn’t take long for me to build my clientele,” she says. “I do have a website, a Facebook page, and an Instagram account—@whiskertalescatgrooming—but most of my clientele has been gained by word of mouth.”

Debra is super busy. She says there is such a need that she could work seven days a week if she wanted to. All of her regular clients book appointments for the entire year. It is difficult for Debra to take on new clients, and that usually only happens if someone moves away or a cat passes. Many of her clients have told her that they feel more comfortable bringing their cat to a trained, certified professional.

“I encourage owners to keep their cats on a regular schedule of maintenance appointments,” shares Debra. “Educating the client is something that is really important, too. I tell the client that they should have little to no maintenance in between grooms if they let me do all the ‘dirty work.’

“Cat grooming is becoming more and more recognized as a real need, but there are still people who think that cats don’t require grooming,” she continues. “The cats I see prove that isn’t true. Those who are matted or pelted, have ingrown nails, urine-soaked bellies and dirty bottoms, chin acne, stud tail, dirty and stained eyes, greasy coats and dandruff, as well as those who are just plain smelly, really need our professional attention.

“I have clients who have allergies to cats and regular bathing helps them keep their cats in their home. I also have clients who have cats in great condition and want to keep them that way,” she adds.

Debra has a good relationship with the veterinary clinics in her area and receives regular referrals from them. She says it feels good to know that the veterinarians trust her training and experience enough to send clients to her. Most of these referrals are for cats that need mat/pelt removal and the vet has suggested they try a cat groomer first to see if it can be done without sedation.

“It has been my experience, more often than not, that most of these cats do not require sedation,” says Debra matter-of-factly. “Once I remove the matting, I educate the client on how we can prevent the matting in the first place so that the cat is no longer living in discomfort/pain. My intention is to put them on a regular maintenance schedule as opposed to once-a-year shave-downs.

“As groomers, we see some of our clients’ cats more often than their vets do (with the exception of those who may have chronic health issues),” she continues. “This allows us to notice changes such as lumps and bumps, and even physical changes or behavioral changes that the owner may not be aware of. I have come across anomalies that I’ve mentioned to the owner, and encouraged them to seek veterinary evaluation if a health issue is suspected.”

While keeping in mind that time is of the essence when grooming cats, Debra says she works efficiently but doesn’t rush through her grooms.

“I want to minimize stress as much as possible,” she shares. “Understanding cat behavior is essential, as not all cats are comfortable with the process. Some cats love it, some are indifferent, and others need help by slowly introducing them to certain aspects of the groom such as the sounds of clippers, running water and blow-drying.

“Every cat is different,” Debra continues. “If a cat becomes stressed during anything I am doing, I will stop and assess the cat. If it calms down, I will continue the groom. If not, I will stop the groom, contact the owner, and depending on whether it was a medical issue or the cat was just highly stressed, we may try again another day. Sometimes very senior cats, for example, can only handle so much depending on what is being done, and I have, on occasion, split the groom into two sessions instead of pushing them through longer than they can manage.”

Debra is Fear Free certified and Pet First Aid certified. She feels it is very important as a groomer to know basic first aid and CPR, and to never stop learning. Debra has attended the “Bad Ass Cat Groomer Online Conference” and a cat groomer workshop/retreat in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. She is also a member of the IAPEG (International Association of Professional Esthetic Groomers) as well as the NCGI (National Cat Grooming Institute).

“Continuing education is important to me,” she shares. “Unfortunately, cat grooming seminars, shows, and exhibitions are not plentiful on Vancouver Island. I do follow some of my instructors and fellow CFMGs on their social media accounts. Also, the NCGI has an alumni Facebook page where there is always something to learn and a lot of support from each other.”

There are now five CFMGs in Debra’s area, and they all received NCGI training.

“There is no competition between us. We support and encourage each other and are all very busy,” she adds.

When she became a CFMG, Debra’s objective was to be able to safely groom cats and to do it in an environment where the cats would feel safe and comfortable, which is why she chose the home-based salon model.

“It is just me and the cat,” Debra says enthusiastically. “It is canine-free, has its own entrance off of a deck in a lovely backyard where clients can wait with a coffee if they like. The cats even have a big picture window where they can look out at the bird bath from the grooming table.”

At Whisker Tales Cat Grooming, the goal is for every cat to receive a gentle, stress-free, one-on-one grooming experience, and Debra Norton’s loving care certainly gives her clients plenty to purr about!

hedding in dogs and cats is natural, normal and healthy. What’s more, it is highly functional, efficient, an easy form of self-care and environmentally beneficial—a true example of evolutionary genius! Ever notice how the big shed-off in dogs in the spring always happens when the birds are building their nests to lay their eggs?

Pet parents need to be taught that shedding is normal and natural, and hopefully by the person from which they acquire the pet. But since that is highly unlikely, they must hear it from you, their groomer. The skin and coat/hair/fur of a mammal determines so many factors about their lives, especially their health. For all of us mammals, the skin is the largest and most important organ in the body. Hair is also skin, just an extension of it, all made up of keratin proteins.

Maybe this is an old-school idea of mine, but we groomers used to teach our pet parents back in the day that they were expected to do some of the grooming tasks in-between visits to us groomers. Pet parents can and should be trained to be our partners in home care for these fur coats between grooms, and certainly also brushing the hair-type dogs to prevent matting, especially after they get wet.

Groomers should not reinforce the bad information that is sadly out there. We should provide good information. I believe that every client should get a ten-minute consultation on the dog or cat’s coat type and care when they first come to you, and at key times in their development. Educating them about the needs and functions of their pet’s coat is part of our job as professional pet groomers.

To quote my wise groomer friend Lori Kegley Marcin, “All hair is not equal.” These naturally evolved double-coated dogs and cats who naturally shed generally have two kinds of hairs on the main part of their bodies (torso). First, they have the primary hairs (often called “top coat” or “guard hairs”) which are fully formed, structural hairs with three layers to each hair shaft—the cuticle, the medulla and the cortex—and do not shed much at all. Humans have the same three layers to their head hairs. The medulla is the strong, stretchy core of the hair shaft; the cuticle is the scaly, protective outer layer of the hair shaft; and the cortex is the middle layer of each hair that contains pigments and nutrients.

The other type, the secondary hairs (or “undercoat”), are the little fuzzy insulating hairs that shed the most and are not fully formed hairs. They do not have a medulla. They are just baby fuzz that comes in and falls out with the seasons to provide either insulation from the cold in the winter, or to allow air flow to the skin in the warm months while the primary hairs stay in place to reflect the sun away. Without a medulla, these undercoat hairs are not strong enough to be protective of the thin skin of a dog and the thinner skin of a cat. That is why fur-type dogs should never be clippered on their upper torso. Clippers do not discriminate between the protective and structural primary hairs that need to stay in place for years, are very slow growing with a long dormancy period and seldom need to be replaced.

All dogs’ coats are going to either primarily mat and tangle and need to be cut (“hair-type” or “undetermined length (UDL)” coats) or they are going to shed (“fur-type” or “pre-determined length (PDL)” coats). If people complain about the matting and the cost of haircuts of their hair-type dogs, or the constant cleaning up of shedding hair of their fur-type dogs, they probably always think life is better “on the other side.”

All cats have pre-determined length, or “fur,” and are usually double-coated, meaning that they have both long-lasting primary hairs and often-shedding secondary or undercoat hairs. There are exceptions though, such as the rare “hairless,” or single-coated cats, like the Sphynx or Rex. And, there is even the triple-coated Siberian cat!

Fur-type dogs and cats should not be shaved, especially on their upper torsos or “jacket” area—the vitally protective area of the coat and skin specially evolved to keep the animal alive. Without their primary hairs or topcoat, their thin skin is highly susceptible to risk of cancer, parasites, bacteria, fungal infections and a host of other issues that occur when their thin skin is not covered. Trimming of the undercarriage of the dog or cat, and in between the back legs and under the tail, does not create the same problems.

All shedding breeds of dogs and cats shed undercoat hairs a little all the time. These secondary hairs are on a much faster growing cycle—from anagen to catagen to telogen and out several times a year. But they shed, or “moult,” much more heavily twice a year. What is fascinating is that in recent years, scientists have discovered that what triggers the heavy shedding is not the temperature, but the length of light in the day.

The calendar hits two solstices each year, the shortest and longest daylight days of the year. The summer solstice in the northern hemisphere is the longest day of the year, around June 22nd. The winter solstice is around December 22nd, the shortest day of the year. For those in the southern hemisphere, like Australia, the pattern is reversed.

The heaviest shedding months for us in the northern hemisphere are April through June, when the heavy winter undercoat is blown off to lighten the load for the approaching summer. The somewhat lesser heavy shedding season of October through December is also something we can predict, planning our schedules and booking our clients accordingly.

I get asked every year by one client or another, “Why is my dog/cat shedding when it’s starting to get colder?” My answer is always to explain that this gets the lighter summer undercoat out of the way so the pet can lay on its much heavier undercoat for winter.

s professional pet stylists, we wear many hats for our customers. They rely on us for information and guidance in every aspect of their pets’ lives. Sometimes we’re the pet groomer, answering all their questions about hygiene and style, and other times our clients turn to us for advice on behavior and how to improve the quality of their pets’ lives. Whichever part of their pet’s life they need help with, as professionals, we need to be informed and ready to assist.

Knowledge is power, and being able to educate your clients will build lasting relationships and customer loyalty, which are the cornerstones of success for any pet stylist. This sentiment is especially true with cat customers. Cats can be very difficult creatures to understand, leaving many cat owners at a loss, and so they turn to their groomers for advice. Cat behavioral issues are more common than you may realize, and most of them stem from boredom.

But why does a pet groomer need to know how to combat cat boredom?

Assisting your clients with solving problems they are having with their pets is not only an excellent way to strengthen your relationship with customers, but it also gives you valuable experience that you may utilize in the future. In my career, I’ve been asked to assist clients with varying issues, and through that process of trial and error in solving the problem, I gained useful information that I can use to help other clients with in the future when they too have issues with their pets that they don’t know how to handle.

Kitty pet parents are often at a loss when it comes to figuring out why their feline’s behavior has changed. Behavioral changes in cats can be an indicator of a variety of issues from medical to environmental, but most often those behavioral changes stem from plain old boredom. Cats are often in situations where they spend vast amounts of time alone. Even in multi-cat households, some cats live a more solitary life, lacking interaction with other pets and often choosing just one family member they prefer to be around. Many housecats live exclusively indoors, which greatly limits their territory, and that alone can create stress for an animal that naturally prefers to roam a larger territory.

Cats are often the chosen pet for apartment dwellers where space is limited. The biggest issue is that indoor cats tend to become lazy and often become overweight from lack of exercise. These cats typically lack playtime and exercise and, over time, boredom sets in and their behavior starts to change. But fear not, there are ways to combat boredom and assist your clients in finding the right solutions to keep their furry feline family members entertained.

Some of the most common signs that a cat is suffering from boredom are litterbox issues, sleeping more than usual, over-eating, finnicky eating and destructive behaviors. The first step when a client notices behavioral changes is a visit to the vet to rule out a medical issue. Once a medical issue can be ruled out, the next step is to move on to enriching the cat’s daily life to battle boredom.

Here are a few tips that you can share with your clients that can help to create a more stimulating environment for their feline family members:

Cats are often the pet companion of choice because they can be left alone for longer hours than dogs. While this is true, they still need a routine. Cats tend to be creatures of habit and setting a routine schedule for cats can benefit them greatly. Cats don’t do well with a lot of change, so consistency is key to their happiness. Consistent feeding times and a regular routine for the owner will help cats feel more at ease.

Mental stimulation is an excellent way to battle a cat’s boredom issue. There are many easy and fun ways to stimulate their senses and create activities that satisfy a cat’s natural instincts and behaviors. For example, scratching posts are not just a place for cats to sharpen their claws. The behavior of scratching is a stress reliever and a way to mark their territory. Scratching posts come in many forms, shapes and sizes—there are vertical towers, horizontal boards, doorknob hangers and some are even infused with catnip for extra appeal to a bored kitty. Placing the post where the cat prefers to scratch and not just where it’s convenient increases the chance of the cat using it and helps to deter them from using furniture as an alternative.

Another great mind-stimulating activity is creating a way for a cat to “hunt.” Rather than offering dry food in their bowl, divide the meal into several smaller portions and hide them in easily accessible places around the home. Add a treat to the mix to make it even more appealing and let their keen sense of smell and their natural curiosity lead them to the hidden treasures.

Cats aren’t like dogs when it comes to toys. Filling a basket with toys will not stimulate a cat to play with them. Cats like to stalk and chase, not grab toys from a basket. Choose interactive toys that move or that you play with along with your cat. Some cats are stimulated by small objects that resemble a rodent while others react with more enthusiasm for toys that have real feathers. Getting your cat to stalk, pounce, and chase a toy that you control is a great way to stimulate their minds and burn calories at the same time. There are many fun and interactive toys that wobble and move around in erratic patterns, which entice cats to stalk and pounce onto. Solo toys that require the cat to put into motion can be placed around the home for them to discover and play with. These toys should be swapped out every few days to avoid the cat becoming disinterested in them.

Cats have excellent vision and they love to observe their surroundings, especially the outdoors. Cats love to peer out the window and watch birds, insects and even wind-blown leaves. Adding a window perch provides a cat with an elevated vantage point to survey their territory and the surrounding area, which puts a cat at ease because they are aware of what’s around them, making them feel more confident. This also gives them a comfortable place to take a nap while basking in the warmth of the sun, which cats absolutely love to do.

Cats are predators and it’s in their nature to move about stealthily. Cats prefer to walk under or behind furniture and other household items as a way to hide themselves. Providing hiding spaces is easy and beneficial at the same time. Place a cat’s favorite blanket or bed in a space where they can feel protected and hidden away from noise and busy family activities. Common household items can also be used as hiding spaces while providing some fun activities for the cat to enjoy. Cardboard boxes are an inexpensive and easy way to create fun hiding spots for cats. Sprinkle a little catnip inside for an extra incentive to explore the box and watch them roll around the box with pure joy.

Sometimes cats thrive from having a companion other than the owner. If a cat suffers from boredom and spends long hours alone, perhaps considering a second pet may help the situation. If a second pet is not an option, maybe a friend, neighbor or pet sitter is the perfect alternative. Having someone stop by when no one is home breaks up the loneliness and provides a distraction from their solitary day.

Providing your clients with these helpful tips will enrich their pets’ lives as well as the life of the owner. With your input, you and your clients can work together to help their pets live their best lives while positioning yourself as an informed and skilled professional.

hen grooming a cat that is over seven years old, we need to take a lot more into consideration. After this age, a cat is considered senior, and therefore is at higher risk of injury or even death during or following a groom.

Similarly to when a human becomes elderly, a cat’s skin also ages. The skin layers lose elasticity and become thinner and easier to injure with clippers or even grooming tools. A cat’s skin is on average about 2-3mm thick, but as they become older, it can decrease to as thin as 0.5mm. This is one of the reasons why I prefer not to clip elderly cats, except for in cases of severe matting and neglect.

Preventing any issues during a groom is a must, so an extensive questionnaire and New Client form will prepare you and the owner to choose the best and most suitable groom for the cat.

It should include questions such as:

• How old is your cat? Don’t disregard this answer if they are unsure. Sometimes a cat will be a senior but the owner is unaware because it has not visited a vet. I recommend all senior cats visit a vet before their first groom to check for heart, lung and kidney disease, and to determine if they are medically fit enough for a groom.
• Does your cat have any underlying health issues? Sometimes they will not answer this question properly. It is good to name all possible health concerns that will affect a grooming cat and have them listed on your form so a client doesn’t “forget” an important health issue.
• Has your cat had any previous or existing injuries? The cat may have been hit by a car 10 years ago, but over time, this will increase the arthritis presence in that area, which can be extremely painful for the cat when it comes to grooming.

The senior feline usually presents with some level of arthritis, so they will come to your salon with more sebum (oils) in the coat, dead undercoat and dandruff than other adult cats due to pain during self-grooming certain areas. Some health conditions will also cause senior cats to secrete excessive sebum to protect the coat and will take many washes to remove. But we need to also remember that this sebum is a mixture of fatty acids and it has antimicrobial properties, so try not to shampoo the cat too many times.

Due to the potential of arthritis, we must adjust our grooming to keep them as comfortable as possible. The use of a thick yoga mat or padding such as a bed or your lap helps immensely.

Senior cats will also have an increased risk of heart disease. Grooming is stressful and puts pressure on the body, causing the heart to pump at a faster pace (tachycardia). This can lead to collapse and cardiac arrest (the heart stopping). It is good to know the location of where you can check the femoral pulse of a cat, which is inside the cat’s thigh in the groin area. Slight pressure with a finger will produce the rhythm. Cats have a higher heart rate, at 140-220 beats per minute, and under stress, this will be higher. The best thing we can do is keep stress to a minimum and for as little time as possible.

Prolonged stress, where a groom is over an hour for a senior cat, can cause the body to release stress hormones, leading to kidney failure. Choosing the easiest of your services, such as clipping the knots out in one session and bathing in another, or separating a pelted lion clip into two sessions, will help decrease stress.

When a cat is stressed, they will produce a short-term elevation in blood glucose (mild hypoglycaemia). This can push a diabetic cat into shock. With cats that are diabetic, they must see a vet to discuss any options that may be best for them, which can include home grooming or sedation.

Cognitive dysfunction may also be present in senior cats. As the brain ages, the cat loses spatial awareness, memory and can have changes in behavior. A normally sweet cat can turn suddenly, or vice versa. Always be aware of this. They also will have loss of hearing and eyesight, so do not leave them on high areas and be careful when working around the head.

Dental disease is also very common in senior cats. You may be able to tell from the smell, or by lifting the lip. If the cat has an advanced stage of dental disease, there will be pain associated in the jaw area, so any grooming around this area may cause stress or lead to aggression. And a cat bite from a senior cat can potentially cause more damage given the increased bacteria from their mouths. If you see any signs of dental disease (red gums and tarter) and observe pain, let the owner know, as this would be stressful for the cat’s everyday life and not just grooming.

Embedded nails are seen regularly in senior cats in their first grooming session. They are less active, therefore are not removing the layers on their nails required to keep them from embedding into the pad. If a cat presents with this, it is in fact painful and they will get upset having it removed, so it is better to address this at the end of the groom to prevent stress and aggressive behaviors.

When checking in a senior cat, always look for signs of dehydration. Do a pinch test by pinching part of the skin. If the skin does not go back to normal within one to three seconds, the cat cannot be groomed, as it is at even more increased risk of injury and stress. If a senior cat presents already panting or urinating and defecating due to stress, do not attempt to groom the cat. Even nail clipping can cause health issues and severe shock.

During a groom, a senior cat may show signs of stress such as hissing, vocalising, urinating or defecating. If this occurs, try to continue the groom in another session. If a cat has blood in their urine or feces, or starts coughing, they will need to see a vet right away.

Using methods such as lap grooming and lap drying can help keep the cat at a lower stress level. Choosing a regular bathing schedule (many senior cats love a warm bath and blow-dry) instead of a clip where you need to continuously stretch the skin and move the cat around into uncomfortable positions is a far kinder approach to grooming the senior.

After the groom, I also make sure the client keeps an eye out for signs of ill health. If a cat decides to not eat or drink after the groom, they will need to see a vet right away, as this can indicate signs of kidney failure. Contact the client that afternoon or the day after the groom to check up on the cat’s comfort and health. This not only reminds the client that their cat is a senior and that they need to observe their cat more closely, but it also shows that you care about the client and their pet.

Lexie Goldsmith is an International Certified Master Cat Groomer and Qualified former Veterinary Nurse that has been grooming cats for over 15 years. Lexie teaches her low-stress cat grooming techniques online worldwide at learncatgrooming.com.au and in person in her salon, Lexie’s Dog and Cat Grooming, in Perth, Western Australia.

hen it comes to the world of pet grooming, much attention is often directed towards dogs. Grooming techniques, products, and discussions largely revolve around the diverse breeds and patterns that canines possess. But what about our feline friends? Cats come in just as many varieties, each with their own unique needs and characteristics that warrant special attention.

While haircuts like the Lion Cut and other services like nail trims and nail caps may be similar across most cats, the foundation of each groom should focus on enhancing the natural beauty and features of each cat. Here we’ll cover some common cat breeds and the different grooming techniques that apply to each, as well as how they can be applied to the domestic shorthairs and longhairs likely filling your schedule.

Persians: While their signature smushy face stands out among other cat breeds, the Persian coat is both luxurious and full. Prone to matting, the best approach for this coat is deep cleansing with a degreaser and/or clarifying shampoo so that any excess dead hair or clumps comb out more easily. A clean coat and blow-drying against the growth of the hair create the ideal voluminous look of the Persian and Himalayan. A small amount of trimming immediately above their eyes and the hairs growing off the tips of their ears assist in the overall look of roundness this breed requires. Plucking dead hair just below the cheeks creates a round cheek separate from their jaw line. Otherwise, the Persian is left full and natural, including their toe tufts, or hairs growing in between the paw pads and toes.